Earlier this spring, rumours that had been circulating for years were finally confirmed: France’s master chef Yannick Alleno would be bringing Terroir Parisien, his bistro concept, to Hong Kong. Although one of the most talked-about foreign imports this year, Terroir Parisien is located in a discrete location, tucked under the stairs that connect Alexandra House and Princes Building. The transformation of the restaurant space is impressive: there’s an expansive dining room where tables are neatly and evenly spaced, overlooking a wide open kitchen set against the well-stocked bar. We love the round banquette seating set along the sides of the dining space, overlooking a square room filled with dark timber and earth tones and zinc counters that bring a modern touch to the casual restaurant.

The simple two-page menu is packed with the restaurant’s specials, from set offerings at the top to a wide selection of main courses, as well as a full page of beverages to choose from. We began our meal with ‘Beluga’ lentils with nutmeg crème fraiche and warm blinis. Puy lentils were cooked and placed within a caviar tin to look like the luxurious fish roe and topped with nutmeg-laced cream. The blinis were warm and tender, a great accompaniment to the lentils and a hint of cream. Snails baked in Paris mushroom cap with parsley and garlic butter is already a bestselling dish. We love the richness of escargot paired with juicy mushrooms set on a cast iron pan with herbed butter, best enjoyed with the crispy house baguette. The grilled line-caught mackerel fillet is wonderful. The fish’s richness is balanced by lightly vinegar-marinated cauliflower florets and cauliflower puree. The serving size is quite large, enough to serve as a main shared between two guests.

As a main, we ordered the Charolais beef tenderloin with pepper cream sauce, sautéed green beans and potato puree. The staff recommended changing the mash to fries but we stuck to the potato puree, which was soft and light with just the right hint of butter added. The tenderloin was cooked medium rare but somehow felt more undercooked than its intended doneness. The haricot verts, despite simply blanched and served as a side dish, were perfectly crunchy on the outside and juicy within.

Dessert is a highlight at Terroir Parisien. The signature Brioche Nanterre is Alleno’s version of French toast and the bread, upon soaking in milk and pan-fried in clarified butter, was crunchy and golden brown on the outside, with a cotton-like soft texture within. The brioche was great with vanilla ice cream. The piece de resistence of the night was the Saint-Honore, the quintessential pastry classic. Rounds of choux pastries set on lightly sweetened chiboust cream and whipped cream atop a thin round of caramelised puff pastry. The base pastry stayed crispy and light, and much like the creamy filling was rich but not cloying.

The wine menu at Terroir Parisien covers a wide range of reds and whites as well as bubblies and spirits. Cocktails are on the classic French varieties but most guests opt for wines instead. Wine by the glass option is extensive and affordable.

The staff at Terroir Parisien is friendly and attentive from the minute guests walk into the restaurant. The knowledge on food offering is superb, especially with description and portion control suggestions for guests. It is, however, when it comes to wine pairing suggestions that the staff needs better understanding in the field to offer the same level of expertise for the guests.

A dinner for two amounts to HK$1,200. Despite the unseemly location Terroir Parisien lives up to its pre-opening buzz.