Date of review: January 2, 2013 | Reviewed by:
There’s an easy elegance to this seductive steakhouse, tucked away on the third floor of the Grand Lisboa, thanks to lashings of dark wood, leather and gleaming marble. A cabinet of ruby-hued meat greets you at the entrance, and floor-to-ceiling windows offer a view of the surrounding neighbourhood, but your eye doesn’t linger in one spot for long, being quickly drawn to the open kitchen, sleek sushi bar, and towering tanks of live seafood.
Things get off to a great start with a generous board of fresh-baked breads (though we’re still scratching our heads over the dessert-leaning choc-mint loaf). For starters, it’s hard to go past the abundant salad bar, a metres-long buffet loaded with virtuous vegetable dishes, cured meats and calorific condiments. Warm appetisers are also worth a nudge, such as the baked clams stuffed with pork mince and ginger. But really, you’re here for the beef. Various cuts of prime-quality meats are shipped in from Japan, Australia and the US, cooked on an open flame, then conscientiously rested before being served with your choice of sauce and sides (the béarnaise, buttery mash and gratinated broccoli are our top picks). If seafood is more your shtick, look to the fresh assembly in the live tanks – grilled whole snapper works a treat with the delicate lemon butter sauce. For dessert, decadent slabs of black forest cake, layered with mousse, sponge, jelly and cherries, will soon have you loosening the belt.
The Grand Lisboa’s 8,500-strong wine list would take some beating, boasting a covetable collection sourced from around the world. From the nifty iPad menu, which includes ratings from noted wine judges, choose anything from an affordable glass to an impressive vintage bottle or a no-holds-barred magnum.
Friendly and efficient without being overbearing. We’re not sold on the uniforms of floor staff, however, which seem all too sporty for these sleek surrounds.
The bill can hit around MOP800 a head, including wine, an 8oz steak and a whole snapper, but you’ll be happy to part with that cash for the quality and setting. Starting at MOP228, the three-course Executive Lunches represent excellent value.