Umi, which means “ocean” in Japanese, is a small, sushi-only restaurant located diagonally across from Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan. It serves primarily omakase, a multi-course menu utilising the freshest and most appropriate ingredients of the chef’s choice. One of the key elements in such an experience is the personality of the chef, and it is a delicate balance. Too serious and the experience is sombre and overly earnest. Too talkative, and it is merely intrusive. Umi strikes the perfect balance, with the affable chef Yukio Kimijima offering just enough knowledge about the seasonal ingredients on offer; but also knowing when to recede into the background and let the experience speak for itself. So put your trust in chef Kimijima, sit back, and enjoy the intricate, delicate feast. One tip? Do make sure to at least ask for the truffle rice to kick off the meal.