Date of review: June 22, 2017 | Reviewed by: Wilson Fok
Tucked at the end of Central’s Duddell Street and neighboring Beefbar, Wolfgang's Steakhouse is the latest American steakhouse to open in Hong Kong. The welcoming entrance reveals a modestly stocked bar and a TV with muted sports broadcast, which we found a rather unnecessary setup. The steakhouse dining space is a square room with a vintage feel – dim lights and leather booth seating. The décor is simple and tidy, even though the mosaic-embellished ceiling is low, which makes the space look even smaller and noisier at full capacity during dinner service.
The steakhouse offers a single one-page menu with all of its classics, from crab cakes to lobster bisque and various chops to choose from. We began with a jumbo shrimp cocktail. Instead of prawns hanging around the rim of a glass, these jumbo shrimps were peeled and fanned atop a bed of ice, served with a tangy and hot cocktail sauce. We love the Beverly Hills chopped salad, where peas, carrots, celery, and hearts of palm were finely diced and served as a starter. The dressing is just right and the salad is refreshing to enjoy before the mains arrived.
Many guests ordered the establishment’s signature porterhouse for two, which at HK$1,050 is a good deal for a steak that weighs a kilo, and the aroma of steak basted in its own fat filled the space throughout the night.
We opted for the rib-eye steak, served a perfectly cooked medium rare. With 28-day dry aging process conducted in-house, the USDA prime grade grain-fed steak is meaty with a caramelised crust, and yet, still lacked the meaty richness we would expect from a rib-eye. The lamb chops, an unlikely choice of the night, were thick and cooked well as they were, and an easy winner of the evening.
Portions for sides are large and best for sharing. Potato lovers will enjoy the varieties of preparation for the humble spud. Cottage fries arrived just-fried. Thin, crisp and golden brown, the fries were lightly salted and a great accompaniment to the steak. Guests can choose to drink their desserts with a good selection of sherries, port, and spirits, but the homemade Wolfgang’s cheesecake is another good choice. A generous wedge of rich cheesecake was dense and filling, with just a touch of lemon throughout. We suggest omitting the whipped cream on the side though, as this ‘homemade schlag’, as advertised on the menu, tend to be a little too cloying and sweet
At the time of our visit, Wolfgang's Steakhouse has yet to acquire a valid liquor license and the wine list was not available. Guests were encouraged to bring their own bottles with free corkage offered, limited to two bottles per table no matter the size of the party. The restaurant has a small cellar near the far end of the space, and guests can expect a good collection of red wines that complement steakhouse classics.
The service at Wolfgang's Steakhouse is on point and proper. Guests are greeted with an introduction to the restaurant’s concepts and menu recommendations. The staff is keen and helpful from refilling glasses, changing plates and cutlery to portioning dishes for guests without being intrusive throughout service.
A dinner for two without wine amounts to HK$2,100. Wolfgang‘s Steakhouse offers an affordable experience for those who enjoy a full-on steakhouse experience. We are keen to look forward to future visits when the quality of aged meats is more consistent and stable.