10 Rare Vintage Fashion Pieces On Vestiaire Collective Curated By The Byronesque
April 17, 2018 | BY Rosana Lai
Ever wish you had a time machine to revisit some of the most pivotal pieces in fashion history? While the time machine might still be a few years away, Byronesque—a brand specialising in contemporary-vintage fashion—has partnered with Vestiaire Collective's marketplace for pre-owned luxury fashion.
Together, they've curated an exclusive edit of 200 seminal pieces from designers who altered the course of fashion history. Byronesque founder & CEO Gill Linton walks us through 10 of the rarest pieces by the likes of Comme des Garçons and Martin Margiela.
Jeremy Scott Logo Bomber (2000)
Using a fashion house's logo as a motif in its collections is nothing new, as proven by Jeremy Scott's bomber jackets and trench coats from 2000.
"We’ve been looking for this collection long before logomania came back. And not just because we knew it marked a moment in fashion history at the time, but because early Scott is now the height of contemporary-vintage fashion," Linton says.
Maison Martin Margiela Fragile Bag (2006)
Look familiar? Long before Virgil Abloh made Off-White's now-famous crime scene tape a fixture in his collections, Margiela introduced the "fragile" tape into his 2006 ready-to-wear and accessories as a type of social commentary.
"Martin could have been predicting the end of glamour and ostentation with this pre-recession warning. Or an indication of his own fragility towards an industry he left only a few seasons later. Tape has become a staple of today’s hyped fashion merch, including the obviously re-issued version of this collection in 2017. It all leads back to him," says Linton.
Helmut Lang Bowie Top (1995)
Ever the icon, David Bowie's lightning bolt makeup from Aladdin Sane, his sixth album cover, has since been immortalised by a generation of artists including Helmut Lang's iteration in his 1995 collection.
"If you Google this collection, this iconic design comes up as merely a ‘transparent top’. We think Bowie is a much more fitting reference for Lang and his oppositional influence on fashion," Linton says.
See also: Shop The Shoot: Flashback To The '60s
Jean Paul Gaultier Trench (1998)
Fashion truly operates in cycles, and you never know when an overlooked piece might make the spotlight in a few decades. Jean Paul Gaultier's belted trench coat is one such piece.
"Such is the paradox of success that Gaultier has become a vintage staple, and why his lesser known pieces, like this trench coat, are more relevant today than ever—JPG FW 18 if you like."
Maison Martin Margiela Boot Leggings (2003)
From Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik to Balenciaga, boot-leggings seem popular now but that wasn't always the case, especially when it was first introduced by the house of Margiela.
"It’s a myth that high demand vintage was as popular the first time around," says Linton. "Truth is that some of the best pieces didn’t make it past the runway, like these shoe leggings that significantly inspired a new generation of footwear that did. Sometimes we just want to give credit where it’s due."
Yohji Yamamoto Skirt
If this voluminous skirt seems common and ubiquitous now, it would only speak to the lasting impact and pervasiveness of Yamamoto's architectural designs.
"This skirt is from one of Yohji’s most poetically melancholic shows. Few shows have the capacity to touch people like this collection and piece of fashion theatre. Proper fashion history," says Linton.
Versace Safety Pin Bag (1994)
Alongside the more widely-circulated black leather pieces adorned with safety pins, is this mini white bag that looks like it could be from a contemporary brand or collection.
"Thankfully, vintage Versace has been given new life thanks to Donatella’s recent homage to her late brother's peacock punkness. Think of that instead of Liz Hurley," says Linton.
Vivienne Westwood T-shirt (1977)
Some of the most memorable and influential designers are the ones who challenged audiences with something a little uncomfortable. Such was the case with Vivienne Westwood's T-shirt entitled, "Sex with Minnie."
Linton says, "Naturally our timeline starts at Punk and misses anything too hippie or pretty before the ‘80s. And although the world of Sex and Seditionaries can be as much a troublesome underbelly as it is an aspirational subculture, this punk collection has been officially authenticated by the Westwood archivists themselves."
Maison Martin Margiela Painted Tabi Shoes (2004)
The Tabi boot, which Margiela has called "The most important footprint of my career," is one of the designer's most iconic and talked-about pieces, 25 years and counting.
"Martin painted over clothes and shoes to re-imagine items from previous collections. When there’s no corporate budget, creativity is the best currency to have. These still have the tape with the model's name attached to the soles," Linton says.
Comme Des Garcons Show Robe (1986)
When did pyjama dressing become popular? You're looking at one of the original sources of inspiration by Comme Des Garcons, which set off a cult fascination in the 1980's when Rei Kawakubo adopted the atelier lab coat and made it her signature.
Linton says, "Two extremes of Comme in one collection. The much sought-after and infamously re-issued show robe, actually from 1986, and a very early jumpsuit from unexpectedly simpler times."
Shop the Byronesque x Vestiaire Collective video and exclusive edit at vestiairecollective.com on April 17, 2018.
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