Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine
These watchmakers really step up their game with the most whimsical of all watch complications, the moon phase

MB&F MoonMachine 2

Tatler Asia
MB&F MoonMachine 2
Above Photo: Courtesy of MB&F

Hailed as the world’s first projected moon phase display, MB&F sought the expertise of Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva to incorporate the latter’s signature moon phase for the HM8, which is distinguished by its lateral time display. When worn on the wrist, time can be read without the need to lift the hand as the display is not on the main dial but perpendicular to it—a design that harks back to 1970s driver’s watches.

The hour, minute and moon phase may look like they are positioned perpendicularly when in fact they are projected images via an optical prism of their flat positions. The prism is cut to magnify the hours and minutes but not for the moon phase to avoid distortion.

And then there is Sarpaneva’s moon, which has an actual face with eyes, nose and lips. There are three moons, all made from gold—a big version on the radial web rotor on the main dial, and two smaller versions to indicate the moon phase.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht

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Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht
Above Photo: Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

In ancient times, sailors depended on the moon for navigation. Meanwhile, the position of the moon in relation to Earth influences the tides. In this magnificent work of horological art from Ulysse Nardin, the two are combined.

For greater impact, the moon is rendered in a 3D orb, its surface engraved to mimic the actual appearance of its muse in space. One half of the sphere is treated in blue PVD (new moon) while the other half is rhodiumised (to reflect the Sun’s illumination).

An indicator for the tides is visible in the side of the watchband, with the addition of the seasonal coefficients display. Beautifully complementing these maritime measurements is a power reserve indicator in the shape of an anchor, its chain pulled by a miniature windlass at 12 o’clock.

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Panerai L’Astronomo

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The front and caseback of Panerai L'Astronomo
Above Photo: Courtesy of Panerai

At 50mm in case diameter, it packs a punch. A tourbillon with a GMT and equation of time (the difference between solar time and conventional time in a day), the watch also boasts a stunning moon phase display on the caseback.

The moon phase consists of two discs rotating in sync. The upper disc shows the 24 hours with the sun indicating daylight period and the stars to refer to nighttime. The lower disc is found in a window in the centre, revealing the moon. How the moon phase appears depends on the coordinates—most likely home—preset by the owner, taking into consideration the differences between the northern and southern hemispheres.

What this means is that no matter which time zone the watch travels to, the moon phase will always display how it looks in the sky at home. Working hand-in-hand is the 24-hour disc, which naturally indicates the home time.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine

Tatler Asia
Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine
Above Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine

Aventurine with its blue dotted with whites look like a clear evening sky, making it the perfect match for the moon phase.

The complication appears at 12 o’clock via a large crescent window, the better to appreciate the sizable 11.2mm moon crafted of 18k red gold on a blue guilloche disc embellished with a constellation of stars.

See also: 5 Watch Brands That Have Revamped A Classic 

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