Tatler Reviews: 10 Best Men’s Fashion Shows of Fall 2020
1/10 Dior Men
Inside a massive tent on Paris’ Place de la Concorde, Kim Jones presented a Judy Blame-inspired Dior man for fall. Looking to the British flamboyant fashion creative with a penchant for punk, Jones summoned silk opera coats in Dior grey walking with silk rosettes that bloomed. Shearling bombers and classic trenches came alongside embroidered knits, paisley silk shirts and pinstriped pants. Safety-pin jewellery adorned leather berets and pastel evening gloves rose to the elbows; statement accessories worthy of Blame.
2/10 Comme des Garçons Plus
It was a collision of colourful prints at Comme des Garcons, as Rei Kawakubo continued to evolve her Japanese label’s signature tailoring. Geometric prints, leopard, plaid and camouflage: the patterns appeared as striking panels on natty jackets, and rebels’ patchwork on skinny trousers. Primary colours were piled like blocks—cropped red pants, Irish green sweatshirts, cobalt blue socks—not to takeaway from the designer’s Egyptian Prince-inspired blond wigs.
3/10 Thom Browne
Taking his collection off-schedule this season in Paris, Thom Browne showcased an appointment-only presentation via a staged dinner party attended by Browne’s animal-masked men and a feast laden long table worthy of Alice In Wonderland. Among the food antics, the clothes: Browne’s smoke grey suiting (jackets, pants and even skirts!) returned, some with a deconstructed sports-esque shape. And cut from uber-traditional fabrics: windowpane checks, Harris Tweed, houndstooth, and Prince of Wales check.
4/10 Craig Green
Britain’s Craig Green showed his chic nomad: each outfit an exposition of artefacts picked up along Green’s travels as a researcher-cum-fashion designer. Satiny puffers with headgear harnessed the space explorer, before flowing extended tops and pants in muted hues gave way to a more Sharman style: Green’s signature straps, multiple collars and big pockets adding a tech-utility touch that’s very 2020.
Heritage Spanish casa Loewe delivered the antithesis of classic with its new fall line. Along a lacquered black boardwalk male models walked—in what looked like their mother’s mid-century wardrobe, reworked into youths’ play clothes. Aprons in gold, green, copper grew into gowns, alongside coatdresses, while cotton shirting, albeit with duck prints and elongated cuffs, topped relaxed trousers with ultra-narrow ankles—scaling back just a tad the whimsical and the wonderful at Loewe.
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Berluti dropped a colour bomb that sent shards of blue, greens and pinks over louche suits and outerwear this season: standouts being a lime herringbone coat and a dyed patina deerskin suit. Sophistication (and balance) was found in black-based shirting and knits and the use of luxury fabrics—houndstooth, shearling and Prince of Wales check. The house’s iconic patina leather shoes took a sharp twist, with a winkle-picker toe point, while the house’s colourful sneakers were worthy of other rivals such as Balenciaga and Off-White.
Alessandro Michele took the Gucci man back to school in Milan. The nostalgic collection consisted of uniforms, little shorts and blazers, pastel coats shaped like art smocks, mixed with metallic pants reminiscent of a school dance. Other bling came via animal jewellery, white gloves and coloured gems struck on the lapels, while off-duty flannels and loose-fit jeans with rips at the knees made for luxury’s take on 90’s teenage angst.
8/10 Louis Vuitton
Unlike in spring, Virgil Abloh—who was sick back then—didn’t miss the unveiling of his fourth collection at Louis Vuitton. Dubbed "Heaven on Earth", the set was heavenly with blue skies and white clouds and a runway with massive models of tools used by Louis Vuitton craftsmen, symbolising Abloh’s change in direction: turning from streetwear and looking to the suit. Taupe two-pieces preceded business navy and black numbers; cut short and sharp and paired with pointed Chelsea boots. Every look had a monogrammed bag too—carryall, messengers, satchels, and cross-body—to be only out-suave-d by Abloh’s topcoats in glittery mink or painted on clouds.
The co-ed collection from Simon Porte Jacquemus felt like a summer rendez-vous with several shades of white– beige, oatmeal, taupe, off-white—worked into cargo pants and linen tops—turned wintry thanks to ice-white puffer jackets and cream chore jackets. Silhouettes were breezy, and most fabrics too: perforated trousers and loose cotton shirting, with a neon pink suit in a slouchy fit the most memorable hit of colour for Jacquemus’ fall man.
Fendi dropped a fall line that showcased its “new normal”. In other words, contemporary dark blazers and molten leather pants, reimagined accessories (the Peekaboo bag as a travel trunk hybrid and the baguette crossbody with more hardware and extra puffy bits), as well as high and low tractor-sole boots in brash colours—sky blue, lemon and Fendi yellow. The Italian house even collaborated with Japan’s Kunihiko Morinaga, creative director of Anrealage, for futuristic outerwear and accessories, resulting in a series of photochromatic jackets, mittens and hats.
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