10 Best Men's Fashion Week Shows For Spring/Summer 2020
1/10 Saint Laurent
For his Spring 2020 men’s show, Anthony Vaccarello transported his guests to the iconic Malibu beach from the movie Grease, where the pieces shown fused unlikely references together into one hypnotizing performance.
The major inspiration behind Vaccarello’s collection laid in designer’s fascination with Marrakesh. The ultimate Moroccan fantasy was glamourised with a pinch of Parisian 'je ne se quoi', that can be found in the marriage of flowy sirwal pants with sheer, almost chainmail-like tops.
In an ode to 1970s glam-slam, Vaccarello illustrates the allure of androgyny with kimono-like construction and blown up proportions of blazers.
For Fendi's latest menswear collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi channels her inner jardinière. A collaboration with the mastermind behind Suspiria, Luca Guadagnino, creates the atmosphere of a beautiful Victorian garden, expressed through "Botanics of Fendi” prints devised by the artist himself exclusively for this season’s collection.
From heavy brown knits to olive-toned organza shirts, all the materials work in harmony. The colour story of muted greens and beiges, when combined with a wide selection of intricate accessories, makes for an ideal rustic ambiance; while the range of soft-tailored suits, coats, and even overalls transpires a powerful demonstration of Fendi's bespoke artistic versatility.
What do the Parisian summer solstice and Ghost in the Shell have in common? Both have made an appearance in the Balmain Spring 2020 show, the outcome of which has left us in awe.
Models marched down the runway like cyborgs in hyper-futuristic sunglasses and highly reflective fabrics with heavy embroidery. Of course, we weren’t expecting anything short of astounding from Olivier Rousteing's tailoring. His eagerness to play with different materials and explore new techniques translated beautifully through the apparel and accessories, sparking much enthusiasm among the fans.
Fabrics and textures rarely seen before in Rousteing’s Balmain made a pleasant appearance at the show, as seen in the head-to-toe crystal-white distressed knitted look. We particularly enjoyed the variety of stiff PVC pieces embroidered with reflective glass elements that turned models into holographic spectres.
4/10 SR Studio
Held in a 19th-century hay manger, Sterling Ruby’s first ever show has showcased the triumphant transition of a contemporary artist into the world of high fashion
The collection was a direct extension of Ruby’s earlier work with other media, and explored thre artist’s deeply sentimental connections with the Mennonite community. The variety of denim—masterfully crafted into unorthodox shapes, as shown in the ankle-length coat with contrasting distressed lining—gave us a glimpse into Ruby’s creative range when it comes to couture.
Seeing a boiler suit appear on the runway was expected, but it was the artist’s interpretation of the trend through bold paint splashes and sharp collars that hit the spot.
5/10 Dior Homme
Taking place in an artificial pink desert, the Dior Homme Spring 2020 show displayed Kim Jones' unique vision of the Dior Man.
As expected, Jones kept tailoring at the core of his collection, with signature satin drapes trailing behind. This season also introduced a new newspaper-inspired print, and accessories including a dainty purse that can be worn as a necklace and a larger metal one that looked more like a suitcases.
The silhouettes were kept soft and simple, with occasional appliques on organza shirts. Pastel tones that matched the backdrop and the ambiance of the show added to the gentle, slightly feminine feel of the collection.
See also: Victoria Tang-Owen's Photo Diary From Kim Jones' Dior Pre-Fall 2019 Show In Tokyo
6/10 Rick Owens
This time, amidst the architectural immensity of Palais de Tokyo, Owens pays homage to his Mexican heritage. The designer carefully avoided the folkloric side of Mexico, and instead decided to tap into the influence of Mexican culture through renowned artists such as Josef and Anni Albers.
A plethora of industrial pieces in heavy, structured fabrics painted a picture of romanticised dystopia, while the divine mix of brutal jewelry with heeled shoes combined modernity with antiquity. Iridescent coats with matching oversized pants punctuated the otherwise monotonous runway, reminding us of thin oil films.
The colour palette mostly consisted of shades of grey, with occasional flashes of bright yellow, sometimes in sequins, which emphasized the abstract, the urban and the utilitarian components of the collection.
7/10 Palomo Spain
The Last Day of Pompeii was reimagined in Palomo Spain’s Spring 2020 collection, where Roman antiquity met notes of French Baroque.
Some of the pieces showcased could be described as a revamped portrayal of ancient Roman garments, with wide pleated pants looking much like gargantuan columns of the Temple of Jupiter. The range of fabrics and textures used was impressive, to say the least.
Flowy organza shirts, purple leather blazers and even fuzzy trousers, all harmonized together in a dismal yet beautiful metaphor. Integrating corsetry into the jackets and waistcoats was a bold move that paid off.
The latest Lanvin collection electrified us with its vibrant colour story and '70s nautical-inspired shapes and patterns. Set in Lucien Pollet’s 1933 piscine, the show was a charismatic mix where loungewear met tailoring.
The brand’s designer, Bruno Sialelli, dipped into classic sailor attire for his inspiration, which can be seen in the distinctive removable collars accompanied by muted yellow suits with coquettish green waves on the sides.
Alternating intricate florals with sharp geometrics provided the collection with more dimension, while the introduction of a wide variety of sandals helped to stay within the dreamy pool theme.
See also: The Best Moments At Paris Fashion Week Men's 2019
9/10 Giorgio Armani
A number of blue-hued silhouettes strolled down the ballroom of Palazzo Orsini in Giorgio Armani’s latest menswear show. As always, the collection was heavily based on tailoring, which the designer once again spun in a new fascinating way.
Linen never looked more chic after being forged into a relaxed-fit double-breasted striped suit. Other traditional fabrics, like jacquard, chiffon, and wool also made an appearance, keeping the collection polished. Meanwhile, occasional pops of bright colours and simple prints kept things youthful and fresh.
The double-breasted theme was interestingly carried through Giorgio Armani's shirting too—and it might just be our favourite effortlessly elegant piece this season.
10/10 Stefan Cooke
Stefan Cooke's spring 2020 menswear show was the personifcation of the post-renaissance movement.
The latest collection explores youth through the prism of classical art, which is conveyed alluringly through the cross-laced accents on the cinched blazers and antique prints.
A constant element throughout the show was the airy mesh fabric with diamond-shaped cut-outs, executed in a variety of colours and incorporated in both tops and bottoms. The curious choice of footwear also caught our attention, as widened soles and cropped toes complemented the garments without being a distraction.
See also: 10 Menswear Runway Trends For Spring/Summer 2020