Anatomy of a Cheongsam

Why, decade after decade, the cheongsam continues to be the modern outfit we deserve; and why, decade after decade, its glamour never fades

Every time the Lunar New Year approaches, our thoughts turn to the classic cheongsam. It’s a garment rich with lore—both imagined and authentic—and one that adds romanticism to our yearly rituals of greetings and gambling, angpao and overeating, cookies and gossiping.

Ah yes, the cheongsam or qipao, our ancestral costume, the clothing of our forebears—but was it really? Is the outfit that we instinctively associate with Chinese New Year and cultural traditions really that traditional?

Above Elegant designs from Khoon Hooi’s 2024 collection (Photo: Khoon Hooi)

The truth is, very few know. Some history points to the qipao emerging in the 1920s, others trace it back to the changpao or long robes of the Qing Dynasty. Either way, contrary to our misty-eyed nostalgia, the cheongsam is a deeply modern piece of clothing. In every iteration we’ve seen it, from fashion illustration of the 1920s to Maggie Cheung’s iconic turn in In the Mood for Love, the cheongsam has adapted styles, borrowed elements, and shape-shifted to suit the styles of the times in a way that has never corrupted its intrinsic beauty.

So what makes a cheongsam? Despite its relatively youthful age and chameleon-like nature, the cheongsam has several distinctive elements that—used judiciously and well—continue to pull the red thread of the cheongsam’s story through our modern interpretations.

Above Cassey Gan’s Lunar 2024 mini capsule collection (Photo: Cassey Gan)

Above The mini capsule is extended from its Series 18 collection and updated with festive prints (Photo: Cassey Gan)

Above Skyblue Checks Cropped ‘Cheongsam’ Top from Cassey Gan (Photo: Cassey Gan)

The first is, of course, the mandarin collar. The collar is the single most iconic element of a cheongsam, handcrafted from a single piece of fabric, meeting in the middle with two curves. As traditional as the collar is, there is so much scope for design and drama in its simple lines, as seen to best effect in the iconic series of 20 cheongsams Maggie Cheung wears in the classic In the Mood for Love. Here, director Wong Kar-wai and art director and costume designer William Chang paid the closest attention to every detail of Cheung’s outfits, using them as a barometer for her emotional and mental turmoil.

“She wears all the cheongsams so perfectly in the movie,” says designer Cassey Gan. “It was truly the first time I ever felt like maybe one day I will adapt cheongsam elements into my designs.”

Above Maarimaia’s made- to-measure Love, Caution collection (Photo: Maarimaia)

Fashion critics and fans the world over have lauded William Chang’s beautiful use of fabric and colour in Cheung’s qipao, but just as vital are the swooping collars—a towering four inches in height where normal civilians would wear up to two inches. The collars were not only a tribute to Cheung’s beautiful lines, poise and swan-like neck but also a physical reminder of her character Su Li-zhen’s stifling home situation and emotional repression.

Above Maarimaia’s made- to-measure Love, Caution collection features beautiful oversized buttons that nod to the traditional knotted style, reworked in flowers and leaves (Photo: Maarimaia)

Then there are the buttons—once again, the tiniest of details that offer a subtle and striking range of interpretation. Traditional buttons used on cheongsam are called pankou, Chinese knot buttons or frog fasteners. They are, once again, hand-sewn from rolled cord and binding, arranged into the simplest rows or elaborate designs. Maarimaia’s made-to-measure lunar collection Love, Caution and its ready-to-wear collection for the season both feature beautiful oversized buttons that nod to the traditional knotted style, reworked in flowers and leaves.

“We are seeing a shift in consumer appetite for embracing our culture with traditional clothing,” says Maarimaia designer May Tan. “It is imperative that we uphold our traditions while celebrating with flair this upcoming festive season. [Our collections] were made with the nature of celebration in mind, but updated with modern detailing to redefine the classic qipao.”

Above Su in Crimson by Khoon Hooi (Photo: Khoon Hooi)

Above Mei In Lemon by Khoon Hooi (Photo: Khoon Hooi)

Perhaps the quietest but most hard-working element of the cheongsam is the distinctive asymmetric closure and the frontage known delightfully simply as dàjīn: large front. It’s the design detail that has granted the most valuable real estate to tailors and fashion designers in its simplicity and potential. You need only look to Khoon Hooi’s 2024 collection of qipao to see it—in one buttercup yellow confection, he eschews fastenings altogether in favour of a delicately draped cowl neck; in a hot pink mini shift, he scoops out a cheeky cutout edged in rhinestones.

The cheongsam’s traditional slits are instantly sexy and physically very necessary to allow movement in second-skin tailoring. But in a modern context, they can also be playful and refreshing. The slits lent themselves perfectly to Cassey Gan’s signature sporty, dynamic aesthetic, adding movement and energy to the longer styles.

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Above A Maarimaia’s made- to-measure Love, Caution collection (Photo: Maarimaia)

“We wanted to create a cheongsam-inspired design that was non form-fitting in order to stay true to our brand identity,” Gan explained. “In our Lunar 2024 collection, we have two dresses that are very much inspired by cheongsam—we kept the mandarin collar and high side slits. Other than that, we pretty much kept to our brand DNA of print and texture blocking. We also did a denim version to give it a bit more edge and coolness.”

The cheongsam is, at its heart, a dress made for the modern woman and her many moods. It’s made for quiet moments and glamorous nights; for movement and mystery. It only makes sense that contemporary designers continue to be so inspired by it, and modern women continue to reach for it.

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Topics

Cheongsam Traditional Chinese

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