Cover Deepika Padukone is an Asian celebrity that is typed as a true spring (Photo: Getty Images)

Which season are you? In this series, personal colour consultant Vivian Seo explains the four seasons, provides Asian celebrity inspiration and clears up misconceptions. We kick off with spring

If you spend any amount of time on social media, you may have encountered videos on colour analysis and people going to professionals to find out whether they are a spring, summer, autumn or winter. While using colour analysis to enhance our personal style is something that took off as a trend in recent years, the concept is nothing new. In this four-part series, Tatler takes a deep dive into colour analysis to help you understand the seasons, what you need to know about “your season”, and how their colour palettes can impact your appearance.

To do this, we speak to Vivian Seo, founder of personal colour consultation service Find Your Colour Hong Kong, who breaks down the basics for us, and explains how understanding the concepts of colour analysis can help you enhance your personal style. Here, we start with spring.

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The fundamentals

Much of today’s colour analysis has its roots in a traditional colour theory from the 19th century, which explains colour mixing, contrast and harmony. In 1980s, fashion designer and stylist Suzanne Caygill took this theory as a starting point and developed her own seasonal colour theory for dressing, which still serves as the basis for today’s colour identification system.

The categories of the colour system are therefore divided into spring, summer, autumn and winter, and with sub-categories within each season: light, soft, clear, deep and true.

“To put it simply, your season can determine the mood or vibe of your style,” says Seo, adding that it impacts not only your outfits, but also hairstyle and make-up.

But how do you identify your season? Broadly speaking, those with warm undertones in their skin are spring and autumn types, and those with cooler undertones are summer and winter types. The “season” can also be determined by other factors such as the contrast between your skin tone, hair colour and eye colour.

While all this may sound complex, there’s actually a super-easy way to understand what colours work best for you—hold different coloured fabrics next to your face to see how they affect your appearance. For example, bold shades might add warmth to one person’s complexion while completely washing out someone else’s, making them look tired. Alternatively, pastels might bring out one person’s features, and on another person’s it might look jarring against their’s.

The idea is to learn which colours are the most flattering and work with your personal complexion. It’s also not about ruling out what you shouldn’t wear, but how to choose and pair colours for the best effect—that is, to look seamless and harmonious with the colours you’re wearing, as opposed to looking overpowered by them.

Decoding the terms

“One of the most important things to learn is how to categorise colours,” says Seo, and highlights three key terms: hue, brightness and saturation.

“Hue refers to the colour,” she explains. “If a colour has yellow or orange undertones, it’s warmer, but if it has blue or grey undertones, then it’s cooler.”

Meanwhile, brightness refers to how light or dark a colour is and saturation refers to its intensity: “Is it the original colour, or is it a muted or softer [version] of it?”

These colour categories can then be combined to help identify your season, “for example light and warm colours to denote the spring season or soft and cool colours to denote the summer season,” says Seo.

Spring and its subtypes

Spring people are those with warm undertones and they look best in warm colours. Spring is also subdivided into ‘light’, ‘soft’, ‘clear’ and ‘true’ subtypes.

“‘True’ refers to the typical images of spring—think colours such as yellow and orange. If you mix white into those colours, then you have ‘light’, and if you mix in some grey, then it’s ‘soft’. Those with slightly olive skin tones will find softer colours more complementary.”

“Finally, ‘clear’ intuitively means colours that are [more] vivid,” says Seo. Think about the colours in their true form, and dial up the saturation.

“For spring types [generally], liveliness is key. If you visualise spring, flowers are blooming and there’s sunshine and movement—you can’t really imagine spring being still black and white. The characteristics of spring can be translated into colours, patterns and textures.”

Common misconceptions

“People might think you need to be able to pull off bright yellow and orange to be a spring [type], but colours such as coral pink, warm sky blue, cream and beige are part of the spring palette,” says Seo.

“Similarly, floral isn’t the only pattern that expresses the spring vibe,” she says, explaining that textures, such as ruffles and pleats, are indicative of the movement of spring.

“There’s a mature and calm essence that spring types have too—men can turn to blues and purples to portray a professional charisma.”

“Finally, people might have the misconception that darker skin tones can’t be characterised as light or bright types,” she says.

Discovering your season can be complex: not only do you have to consider the hue and brightness of your natural features, but how the contrast between them affects your overall appearance. Due to the brightness and clarity of typical spring colour palettes, spring types tend to have a higher level of contrast in their features to be able to shine in these colours.

Asian inspirations

“[Bollywood actress] Deepika Padukone is one of the greatest examples of a true spring,” says Seo. “She looks amazing in true and clear colours, in my opinion, because her entire face shines and looks lively.”

“[Korean actress] Song Hye-kyo has a romantic, delicate and mature vibe, which makes her a soft spring. There’s a delicacy about her—she’s not the type to look best in a heavy, smokey make-up look.”

“Finally [Hong Kong actress] Ali Lee uses brighter toned [as in lighter-coloured] clothing and natural wavy hairstyles—which creates a bouncy feel—to express her light spring vibe.”

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