The show, aptly titled Make Believe, unveiled the imagination of Linnetz. Monotone silver looks dominated the runway, but it was the infusion of American iconography that truly stole the spotlight. All the symbols that speak to the culture and history of the United States offered a glimpse into what the future might hold. I was struck by the reinterpretation of the Statue of Liberty (this time walking in the show and not sinking) amongst other references to American culture and society, which alluded to events that continue to shape American society today. For example, the early ’90s puffy skate shoes and the surfers of Venice Beach are referenced in ERL’s goggle-like sunglasses.

ERL’s visionary fusion of fashion and culture left a lasting impression on me, and I particularly appreciated the meticulous tailoring that seamlessly combined California’s skater vibes—with relaxed ‘fits, sunglasses and large sneakers—with futuristic elements such as structured suits that created an intriguing dialogue between the past and the yet-to-come.

My next stop in Florence, the epicentre of Italian art and culture, was Fendi’s show. The brand took us straight to the source: their new leather goods factory, which set the tone for the collection’s theme.

Fendi’s take on workwear reimagined through the lens of fashion innovation emerged and ventured into uncharted territory, paying homage to the craftsmanship and daily tools used by those craftsmen to create the brand’s leather goods. This creative reinterpretation resulted in a collection that merged utility with desirability.

Earthy and neutral hues formed the colour palette, which accentuated accessory pieces like silk ties and monogram bags. Following the show, I went to the after-party and embraced the Florentine spirit of celebrating on rooftops, where DJ Diplo dazzled with a great set, making it an evening to remember.

Last but definitely not least, my final stop in Florence was a real crowd pleaser: Runway Icons, the mega fashion show jointly presented by Luisa Via Roma and British Vogue. 

Piazzale Michelangelo, which offers breathtaking views of the city, witnessed a parade of supermodels like Paloma Elesser, Jill Kortleve, and Precious Lee showing off the most iconic looks from fall/winter of 2023. Brands including Bottega Veneta and Vivienne Westwood were showcased, and my jaw dropped when I saw renowned tenor Andrea Bocelli step out to perform five songs during the show. The after-show dinner, which hosted several celebrities including Leonardo DiCaprio and Julia Fox, lived up to the tone set by the first part of the evening. 

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I then went to Milan to continue my Italian fashion interlude, and the first show I went to was Brunello Cucinelli at Casa Cucinelli. I was particularly compelled by the strong reference to quiet luxury, a trend that has been taking over social media lately, which emphasises understated elegance and sophistication over flashy or overtly branded designs. Brands like Brunello Cucinelli exemplify this trend by offering clothing made from the finest materials, such as cashmere and silk, and focusing on timeless and high-quality pieces rather than loud and attention-grabbing designs.

Cucinelli’s collection featured luxurious summer attire, including sophisticated white summer suits and high-end tennis wear, that echoed styles found on the TV show Succession, one of the biggest influences and a prime example of the quiet luxury trend. The characters’ wardrobe choices reflect a refined and timeless aesthetic that resonated with audiences and inspired a shift towards more subtle and high-quality fashion preferences; not unlike the Sofia Richie aesthetic frenzy that recently took over social platforms. 

One of my personal favourites of the season was the Prada 2024 spring/summer collection, which received considerable (and well deserved) attention with its extraordinary set design that was echoed by what Vogue described as the collection’s “fluid tailoring”. The seamless harmony of chic intellectualism and captivating fluidity was also mirrored in the set design.

Meanwhile, Prada’s signature looks took on new dimensions, effortlessly melding structure and fantasy to result in an avant-garde fashion experience. The in-house team created an alien-esque atmosphere with slime that resembled an eerie, transparent liquid curtain falling from the ceiling, which went crazy on social media. Humble brag: my Instagram Reels of this moment went viral with 19.3 million views, cementing its status as the talk of Milan Fashion Week.

As a proud Hongkonger, witnessing Shanghai Tang’s presentation, Source of Strength, at the Museo Delle Culture in Milan filled me with immense pride. The collection seamlessly intertwined modern design with Chinese heritage, offering a fresh perspective on traditional styles. The presentation embraced a static display, eschewing the convention of having models bring the outfits to life on a runway. Nevertheless, it took me on a journey through historical scrolls and then deep into the exploration of wisdom and innovative experimentation, whilst simultaneously paying homage to nature and Chinese culture.

I then continued my evening with an intimate dinner hosted by the brand on the museum’s top floor, which wrapped up the night on a more personal note.

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I finished my fashion marathon in Paris, as per usual, and was lucky to witness Pharrell William’s stellar debut as Louis Vuitton’s men’s creative director. The emblematic Pont Neuf was lit up to serve as the backdrop for a spectacle every guest will remember—not only for the stunning collection but also the stunning performances by Jay-Z and Pharrell himself.

Other celebrities like Beyoncé, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky who attended the show added to the glamour, and the collection itself blended playfulness with ultra-luxurious pieces. In my opinion, the show-stealers were the bags—particularly the crocodile leather, gold, and diamond-studded Speedy bag, which had an eye-popping price tag of US$1 million.

Read more: Pharrell checks all the right boxes with his Louis Vuitton debut

And then on a hot summer day, I made my way to the historic and majestic Versailles for the Jacquemus show—truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The show was viewed from the water and the 85 boats that carried two guests each, which was very different from any of the shows I’d seen this season.

Models including Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Deva Cassel and Imaan Hammam walked on a long red runway to showcase looks inspired by French Royalty and Princess Diana, who is famously one of Jacquemus’ style icons. While the collection incorporated elements reminiscent of regal fashion and elegant aesthetics, it was also an opportunity for Jacquemus to explore new materials for his designs; lace and tulle especially. We all know Jacquemus likes to blow his audience’s minds with his show locations, but this was an emotional full circle moment for him, as it was a dream of his to host a show within Château de Versailles. 

And there you have it! From Florence’s captivating runway shows to Milan’s tailoring parades and Paris's sensational shows, I hope my escapades through the fashion capitals of the world allowed you to live vicariously through me… until next season!

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