Cover Sandra Choi (Photo courtesy of Jimmy Choo)

The creative director breaks down her career at Jimmy Choo and how the brand has evolved with pop culture and navigated fashion history since day one

When someone has worked in one industry and at the same company for nearly 30 years, it is worthy of note; when that company is a household name, it is extraordinary. Sandra Choi, the creative director at Jimmy Choo since its inception, joined founder “Uncle Jimmy” at the shoe-making atelier when she was 19, and has been instrumental in its becoming a global fashion powerhouse.

“That term ‘nepo baby’ was very much used over the last 12 months or so—I can assure you, I’m not one of those,” says Choi. Born on the Isle of Wight in the United Kingdom, she spent five years with her grandparents in Hong Kong before returning to the UK as a teenager and finding her passion for fashion and design. Choi then apprenticed under her uncle while studying at Central Saint Martins. Now she goes into the office every day and sits at her (very long) desk, pinning up inspiration and illustrations to the walls of her office.

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Above Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)

She may in many ways be an artist, but Choi’s practicality is always at the fore. Her early understanding of savoir faire, and of what makes a perfect shoe informs her design approach. “Everything is an object; you make something that needs to stand the pressure and the balance of engineering,” she says, “Whether it’s a piece of clothing, a piece of jewellery, shoes or bags, I think functionality very much has to come hand in hand with it. Historically speaking, most people suffer from fashion. But now I think there’s going to be a question of why do we need to suffer when we can actually design and look at things from a new perspective?”

It’s possible this common sense is genetic; the brand’s founder needed plenty of it when he started out. “During the Nineties, the UK was not a natural place to find raw materials; Italy was a lot easier because you had factories dotted around everywhere,” Choi remembers. “So it was very resourceful of Uncle Jimmy to have been able to make handmade shoes for the clients. That is something that I always refer to—there’s never ‘no’ for an answer. I’m always determined to find the solution for any design conundrum and anything that we’re stuck on.”

Choi was named the sole creative director in 2013 and has seen the now Capri Holdings-owned brand go from first making a splash when it made shoes for Princess Diana, to its heels becoming a character in their own right on TV series Sex and The City (every fan remembers Carrie Bradshaw famously losing her Choo in the Season 3 premiere), to becoming the go-to shoe for celebrities such as actors Michelle Yeoh, Cate Blanchett and Gong Li, on and off the red carpet.

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Above England’s Princess Diana wore Jimmy Choo heels while attending a performance by the English National Ballet at Royal Albert Hall (Photo: Ken Goff/Getty Images)
Tatler Asia
Above For a gala dinner at Chicago’s Field Museum Of Natural History, Princess Diana wore a Versace gown and Jimmy Choo shoes (Photo: Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)

During Tatler’s video call with Choi, the designer excitedly shows us pairs of shoes—er, Choos— around her: the black ballet pumps she’s wearing; a stunning, hot pink, feathery stiletto on her desk. It’s clear she has a lot of projects going on. But no amount of new projects can top one of the defining moments of her career: her first interactions with a client. The late Princess Diana, now a forever style legend, would order shoes from the brand’s atelier based in London’s East End. “She was a client and a very lovely lady who I was fortunate to meet and help to get looks together. So that set up something that was, historically speaking, just incredible,” she says.

Crafting for royalty both literal and figurative has thus long been a cornerstone of the brand: fans range from the current Princess of Wales to music legends including Beyoncé and Lady Gaga. In the early 2000s, Jimmy Choo was one of the very first luxury shoe brands to work closely with stylists. Choi remembers, as she was preparing to fly to Los Angeles to help at the Oscars, “My mum asked me, ‘What’s that got to do with you?’ [I had wondered the same. After all,] I make shoes, they make films—what is the connection?” Regardless, Choi worked with stylists from a hotel atelier, creating shoes to dress celebrities for the award show. 

It proved to be the ideal runway, as the actresses all struck poses wearing the brand. “It really penny-dropped. That pinnacle moment really [introduced] Jimmy Choo to the world and set us on fire,” she tells Tatler. “I could confidently say that Jimmy Choo is the red carpet’s best friend.”

Twenty-something years later, Choi’s list of collaborators has grown from royals, stylists and celebrities to other designers. In 2018, the late Off-White founder Virgil Abloh became the first ready-to-wear designer to collaborate with Jimmy Choo. The pairing resulted in a celebrity-loved collection featuring plastic-wrapped boots and 122 stilettos reminiscent of Cinderella’s glass slippers. Many memorable collaborations followed, with names as diverse as Mugler and popular manga Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon. “We’re thinking about joining forces with other brands that have the same flavour; [although] I [also] like things that contradict and clash, so I tend to choose brands to collaborate with that are not obvious,” says Choi.

She sees such opportunities “as learning. If I want to make something, I’ll go and knock on the door of someone else who makes it better than me, and learn. It’s about challenging yourself and keeping your creative mind fresh. And then at the same time I often use them as an excuse, and go ‘Oh, they wanted [something secretly I really want]’, to actually leverage it—and it’s fun!”

The latest collab, which was unveiled in October this year with a campaign starring pop star Kylie Minogue, is with Jean Paul Gaultier, and it’s definitely fun. “His house is having a resurgence of everything that has to do with his work and legacy: [Jean Paul Gaultier is a] cultural reference; it was very present in Nineties and Noughties pop culture,” explains Choi of how the partnership came to pass. “I really wanted to bring that youth identity to the forefront.” Choi and JPG creative director Florence Tétier discussed key items that matter to both brands and decided on a direction that is “rebellious and beautiful in contrast”.

The result is a capsule footwear collection that proposes the signature codes and greatest hits of both labels—think corsets translated into slingbacks and second skin-like tattoos printed on thigh-high boots.

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Photo 1 of 6 Kylie Minogue fronts the Jimmy Choo x Jean Paul Gaultier campaign (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)
Photo 2 of 6 Kylie Minogue fronts the Jimmy Choo x Jean Paul Gaultier campaign (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)
Photo 3 of 6 Kylie Minogue fronts the Jimmy Choo x Jean Paul Gaultier campaign (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)
Photo 4 of 6 Kylie Minogue fronts the Jimmy Choo x Jean Paul Gaultier campaign (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)
Photo 5 of 6 Kylie Minogue fronts the Jimmy Choo x Jean Paul Gaultier campaign (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)
Photo 6 of 6 Kylie Minogue fronts the Jimmy Choo x Jean Paul Gaultier campaign (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)

For its autumn 2023 collection, Jimmy Choo tapped Korean group (G)I-dle’s Mi-Yeon as global brand ambassador as well as the face of its campaign. The performer showcases slingbacks and bags from the Diamond collection; the new design signature features the gemstone’s shape in a chain on bags and shoes, as well as a bag clasp.

The collection cements the glamour that the brand is known for and adds a touch of punk, as seen in the use of studs, straps, buckles and mix of tartans. “I was working off the feeling of love ... and I went by something that really shaped me and made me obsessed with identity and fashion—all those turning points when you are becoming a young person and finding yourself,” Choi says. “A lot of my research was on Vivienne Westwood. She was such a pioneer at a very important time in British history, especially [bringing the] punk movement [to life] in fashion.”

The Diamond winter 2023 collection also features orchids—a flower which symbolises love and femininity—in sculpted metal, leather and embroidery. “Orchids make a statement. They’re cultivated and crafted, so there’s an affinity between what we do and this flower.” Its shape also inspires the Drop heel, a new silhouette that appears on a range of boots.

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Above (G)I-dle’s Mi-Yeon with Jimmy Choo autumn 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)
Tatler Asia
Above (G)I-dle’s Mi-Yeon with Jimmy Choo autumn 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Jimmy Choo)

We ask Choi what advice she has for a new business looking to make an impact, and how a storied brand can remain relevant in the fast- paced luxury industry. “Luxury to me is about craft; it’s about making something that lasts a bit longer; being a bit more responsible. And I do see that there needs to be more education, sharing and showing how certain things are made,” she says. “I always say that that millimetre does matter ... and for me to have the time to be able to perfect those things and make it very beautiful in ensuring and having the endurance of time. That’s luxury.”

Choi, whose motto is “Always ask questions and always be intrigued”, is ready to have more fun. “We grew into accessories, we grew into jewellery, you can smell Jimmy Choo now, you can actually wear them on your eyes, on your face ...so the way that I see [what’s next] is very much to do with lifestyle,” she says. “I’d love to show the complete picture of what living as a Jimmy Choo person is. What does that feel like?” We can’t wait to find out.

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