Carat, Colour, Clarity

"Selecting these three Cs comes down to your character and budget. Some ladies are willing to sacrifice colour and clarity for a larger diamond; some feel the opposite. Also consider ring size when choosing the carat. If you put a three-carat diamond ring on a woman with a very small hand it will look huge. If you put the same size diamond on a large hand it may get lost.

Cut

" Taller women with slim fingers suit long stones, such as emerald cuts, marquise and ovals [likewise, petite women with shorter fingers suit cuts such as the princess, cushion and round]. My favourite cut is a cushion with a small table [the flat top facet] and a heavy crown that can be admired diagonally and not only face down. It gives a diamond much more life.

Ethics

" If you buy your diamond at a reputable merchant you can rest assured it went through the Kimberley Process, a certification system that tracks it from the mine all the way to the cutting to ensure it’s not a “blood diamond” from a conflict zone.

Luminosity

" A nice suntan creates a lovely contrast with a diamond. Professional cleaning also helps maximise luminosity. Avoid home cleaning kits as the chemicals may gradually corrode the precious metal around the stone. At Ronald Abram we use an ultrasonic technique to remove dirt particles, then a very mild soap and brush, and we dry the diamond using a hair dryer to avoid droplet stains."

Ronald Abram is the founder of the eponymous fine jewellery house 

This story originally appeared in the October 2014 issue of Hong Kong Tatler