Apart from wedding rings and watches, what jewellery can a man wear without looking like a mobster? Benedict Ku and Peter Cheung weigh in
When it comes to the art of adorning and bejewelling oneself, the sexes are most definitely not equal. For women, buying a new necklace or ring or bangle is usually quite fun. For men, it is a potential minefield. Sure, dog tags are acceptable if you are currently back from Iraq on leave; cuff links and tiepins are de rigueur for formal business attire. But what if you wanted to wear a necklace, or a bracelet, or even an earring for everyday purposes? How does a man pull off jewellery so that he looks like David Beckham rather than 50 Cent?
THE RULES
Rule number 1: Discretion is key.
First things first: some ground rules: discretion is generally preferred over bling. A true gentleman knows that if his date has gone to the trouble to accessorise with a stunning diamond necklace, he does not outshine her with blinding stones of his own.
Rule number 2: Be comfortable.
To get a better idea of what's hot in men's jewellery, we've asked several stylish men about town. According to Benedict Ku, The Most Stylish Male at last year's Hong Kong Tatler Ball and founder of Volar and hip jewellery brand Rock Candy, the best advice he can give is this: "You should always wear what you feel comfortable in. If you think something looks strange on you, most likely others will think the same."
Similarly, Peter Cheung, regional VP of communications at Versace and a man who has had plenty of experience with both jewels and high fashion in his previous stints at Sotheby's and Dior Couture, says, "Whatever a man wears should be something very personal, something he is comfortable with."
Rule number 3: Start small and no bling.
For the absolute beginner, Cheung suggests that a small masculine brooch pinned onto a jacket to start: "He might feel more at ease that it is pinned onto the jacket rather than on him." In terms of absolute no-go zones, Cheung is adamant: "Bling is really passé; and men do not look good with pierced ear(s). Even if a guy had an internally flawless diamond in a large carat, I think it's a waste and looks stupid as an earring. Earrings are strictly reserved for women in my eyes."
THE ESSENTIALS
Cuffs
In many ways, cuffs are the easiest type of jewellery for a man to pull off. They are not usually too frilly and in many cases, helps draw attention to the forearm, which even on the most unfit man looks relatively lean and toned.
Our picks:
Montblanc's woven bracelet of red gold and black rubber (HK$28,900)
Tiffany & Co's mesh ID bracelets, pictured above, in stainless steel (HK$2,350), mesh cuff in oxidised sterling silver (HK$2,880) and Moderne cuff in sterling silver with geometric detail (HK$2,550)
Cartier's Love Bracelet, XL version in yellow gold (HK$36,300)
Necklaces
Necklaces for men can be trickier: you want something to brighten up that t-shirt neckline, but can't get that image of a thick gold chain nestled in abundant chest hair out of your head. Cheung notes, a high/low mix such as a design in precious stones matched with a string or leather necklace is very much on-trend for men at the moment.
Our picks:
Bulgari's Parentesi necklace, pictured above, (HK$32,400), white gold and steel pendant with 0.97 carats of pavè diamonds hangs off an understated black cotton lace. The pendant comes in two sizes - large and small - to suit your own body size.
Links of London's Rogue Pebble necklace (HK$4,200), hanging on a length of black leather, the Pebble pendant is made of sterling silver and the rounded edges gives the piece a softer look, a perfect finishing touch to a casual weekend outfit.
Rings
Not easy as there are so many types to avoid: class, signet and mood rings are a no-no, especially if these are wider than half a centimetre.
Our pick:
Harry Winston comes to the rescue with its new collaboration with menswear designer Thom Browne, GQ's Designer of the Year in 2008: a standout from the collection is a silver/platinum ring, pictured above (HK$96,600) with three diagonal rows of trapezoidal diamonds. Discreet enough for the most sophisticated occasions, it still has enough bling to bring a smile to just about any man's face.
Stones:
A lot of jewellery designers tend to choose diamonds, particularly black diamonds, for their men's jewellery lines, perhaps to give it a harder and more masculine edge. But there's no reason why men can't enjoy a splash of colour with some brilliant gemstones.
Our pick:
David Yurman does a great selection of rings made with exotic stones such as black jade and onyx, pictured above. All are set in silver and priced at HK$6,300, apart from the black onyx, which is HK$5,400.
JEWELLERY TO AVOID UNDER ALL CIRCUMSTANCES
• Diamond-encrusted teeth, otherwise known as a grill, favoured by hip-hop artists and
rappers: I dare you to name one person who can carry this off without looking like a shark
with endless rows of unnecessary teeth.
• Knuckledusters: not unless you're planning to kill someone.
• A single cross dangling from one ear: Are you in a Kiss tribute band? No? Then take it off.
• Multi-coloured cloth bracelets, also known as a surfer's bracelet: Unhygienic and juvenile.
• Leather cuffs: see ‘A single cross dangling from one ear' entry.
• More than one necklace: Only one man in history has pulled that off: Mr. T.
• Class rings: just let go of those halcyon school days already!