Royan Jade jewellery by Linda Lam (Photo: courtesy of Royan Jade)
Cover Royan Jade jewellery by Linda Lam (Photo: courtesy of Royan Jade)

Our jewellery FAQ series answers the most commonly asked questions about jewellery, such as buying guidance, care tips and styling advice. This month, we discuss how to buy jade with Linda Lam, founder of Royan Jade

Jewellery is not just an adornment; for many, it’s a profound expression of culture, status, and personal identity. Among the diverse treasures of the jewellery world, jade holds a particularly mystical allure, revered in Asia for centuries for its beauty and symbolism. But venturing into the realm of jade buying can be as challenging as it is exciting. With its rich heritage and nuances in quality, colour and craftsmanship, jade can send many prospective buyers in search of expert guidance.

For those seeking enlightenment on this journey, our jewellery FAQ series offers a treasure trove of insights. In this second chapter of our series, we dive into the emerald depths of jade purchasing. And to illuminate the path, we’ve sought out the expertise of Linda Lam of Royan Jade, who specialises in the storied gem. While we all know jade breaks into three types: Types A, B and C. Type A is pure, natural jade, maybe with some wax. Type B has been treated to remove impurities and filled with resin, and Type C is treated similarly but also has added colour. It’s best to steer clear of Types B and C as much as possible. But how does one find the ‘Natural Fei Cui—Type A’ jade?

Lam shares her extensive knowledge on what to look for while making this important purchase.

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Tatler Asia
Linda Lam uses jade and jadeite to make contemporary jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Royan Jade)
Above Linda Lam uses jade and jadeite to make contemporary jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Royan Jade)

What questions should I ask when I am buying jade? 

Jade is a valuable gemstone, and it is important to ask certain questions before making a wise purchase decision. Firstly, inquire about the authenticity of the jade to ensure that it is not synthetic. Genuine jade can be classified as either Jadeite or nephrite, and there can be a significant difference in price depending on its classification. Therefore, it is important to verify the type and classification of the jade piece. Secondly, ask whether the jade piece is natural or treated. Natural jade refers to jade that has not undergone any artificial or chemical treatment that alters its appearance or quality. Natural jade is considered much more valuable than treated jade, so it is necessary to identify any enhancements that have been made. Thirdly, inquire about the place of origin. Myanmar is renowned for producing high-quality jade.

Why is Burmese jade so expensive?

Historically, Myanmar jadeite has been associated with the finest quality and has a long-standing reputation in the jade industry. Therefore, jadeite from Myanmar is highly regarded. On the other hand, Guatemala jadeite is a relatively new player in the market and is usually more bluish or greyish in colour. As a result, it may not command the same premium prices as Myanmar jadeite. In general, jadeite from Myanmar is considered more valuable and of higher quality than jadeite from Guatemala.

How do I pick real jade and how do I authenticate my jade jewellery?

For buyers with limited experience, selecting genuine jade can be a challenging task. Here are some tips to help identify real jade. Experienced buyers typically inspect the authenticity of jade using simple tests. We usually conduct visual inspection under good lighting to examine the colour and texture of the jade to observe any unnatural colouration or texture.

We also assess the jade through touch and weight. Synthetic materials are often lighter in weight and have a plastic-like texture. Genuine jade, on the other hand, tends to be heavier and possesses a cool, smooth feel. To check whether the jade piece is injected with resin, we sometimes perform a sound test by gently tapping the jade with a metal object. Natural jade produces a clear and crisp sound, similar to the ring of glass or metal. In contrast, treated or synthetic jade may produce a duller sound.

It is important to note that these tests rely heavily on experience and are not foolproof, even for experts. Therefore, it is always essential to request certificates of authenticity from reputable gemological laboratories.

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What colour jade is most valuable and why?

In jadeite, the most valuable colour is an intense, vivid green, often referred to as imperial green. This colour is considered the most classic and traditional in jadeite. Pieces of jadeite that exhibit imperial green and possess a good translucent texture hold significant investment value. The market price for such jadeite has been steadily increasing due to the rarity of high-quality jadeite and the growing demand for it.

In addition to vivid green, lavender has emerged as one of the most popular colours for jadeite in recent years. The price of high-quality jadeite with a vivid lavender colour has experienced a remarkable surge over the past decade. This increase in price can be attributed to the rarity of such pieces and the rising market demand for them.

How much should real jade cost? What does low quality jade look like?

When evaluating the value and quality of a jade piece, colour intensity is indeed an important factor, but there are also other considerations such as texture, translucency, size, and craftsmanship. Traditionally, colour has been the primary determinant of jadeite prices over the past thirty years. However, in recent years, younger buyers have placed a higher value on good texture and translucency. As a result, the prices of jadeite with these qualities have significantly increased.

Additionally, the cost of raw stones plays a significant role in determining the price of finished jadeite products. Items made from raw stones that were acquired with higher auction prices will naturally have higher selling prices to cover the initial cost. Consequently, pieces made from older rough stones tend to have lower prices since newly auctioned stones are now much more expensive than before.

It's important to note that in the world of jadeite, higher quality doesn’t always equate to the most suitable piece for one. There are countless variations in colour, form, and shape of jade, so the value often can’t simply be measured by only one aspect. Some pieces may not possess an exceptionally vibrant or traditionally valuable colour, but they may hold significant collector value due to exceptional craftsmanship or other unique factors. Ultimately, personal preference and the emotional connection one feels with a jewellery piece are the more important factors in selecting jadeite. And this is the most fun and enjoyable part of collecting jade. 

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