The winner of the Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers’ Contest New Talent Award proves her chops with a capsule collection filled with colour and drama under the mentorship of JOYCE's Michael Mok

It’s not exactly easy to break into the fashion industry these days if you’re not an influencer or some type of celebrity progeny—something Arto Wong, the winner of last year’s New Talent Award at the Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers’ Contest (YDC), knows full well.

“How can you be outstanding in this market? You need to think a lot more about how to be different. And as a novice designer, you can’t expect a large volume of orders, so the cost of production is higher, and thus your retail price will reflect this and affect the economics of the whole equation.”

Wong’s collection, ARTO., a knitwear capsule that combines colour, volume and exuberance to great effect, was the clear champion to Michael Mok, head of merchandising at JOYCE, who was a judge of YDC’s New Talent Award last year as well as a couple of times over the years starting in 2011.

Ahead of this run as one of the committee’s arbiters, he sought to increase the significance of the award by offering a sweetener on top of simple bragging rights: under his mentorship, the winner would earn the opportunity to develop and sell a collection at JOYCE.

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Above Left to right: Michael Mok, Head of Merchandising, JOYCE Boutique Ltd. and Arto Wong, designer of ARTO. (Photo: Courtesy of FASHIONALLY.com)

“Arto Wong is a knitwear designer with a very impactful presentation. The workmanship was excellent and I saw potential. In 2011, I’d have been more concerned with showmanship and beauty or how it represents the talent of the designer. Now when I interview the candidates I also look at the concept of the brand, whether it has potential longevity, marketability, etc.”

While the retail opportunity is undoubtedly once-in-a-lifetime, the real boon is in the wisdom gleaned from an industry insider whose connections and practical expertise are a resource for which many would kill.

“Michael gave a lot of opinions on modifications for production, and he was even more involved in the production process than I was, in particular liaising on the orders, marketing, shipping with the various departments at JOYCE. There’s no way a new designer knows how to deal with all these different parties,” says Wong.

The commercial knowledge alone is invaluable: “We also looked at practicality of materials, delivery dates and retail pricing, and looked at what opportunities she might have to work with retailers overseas as well,” adds Mok.

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Above Champion and New Talent Award winner of YDC 2017, ARTO Wong launched her debut collection at JOYCE, Pacific Place(Photo: Courtesy of FASHIONALLY.com)

“The JOYCE customer knows about craftsmanship, quality and details,” says Wong. “My pieces started out as a show collection, with a lot created by hand, and they needed to be adapted for mass production. For example, I handmade structures to place inside the knitwear to increase the volume, but that wouldn’t work in a mass-production scenario for retail, so I had to edit the structure of the knit to stand alone without sacrificing too much of the original volume.”

The fruit of their joint labours will soon be revealed. Wong’s collection, Zero to Unlimited, based on the original triumphant pieces shown in competition, will be released at JOYCE this week.

“The inspiration behind the collection is to look at molecules, and their role as the building blocks of everything, and how through different variations and combinations they are able to make up all that exists. I wanted to use a collection to harness this type of energy.

“What I’ve done is present a new way of looking at knitwear rather than the typical pullover or cardigan, it’s more rare to see knitwear with this kind of volume and strong colour combinations. I’ve worked with knitwear from the start actually, because of the degree of control you can have over every stitch, you’re creating your own textile, really.”

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Above Angie Ng, model (Photo: Courtesy of FASHIONALLY.com)
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Above Angie Ng, model (Photo: Courtesy of FASHIONALLY.com)

Focusing on fashion-forward and sculptural/architectural knitwear, a relatively unsaturated niche in the market, is what Wong and Mok hope will give the pieces an edge in a city that both agree lacks volumes of risk-takers.

“JOYCE has some of this more fashion-forward clientele, but they’re the exception rather than the norm,” laments Mok. “Most of the market are trend-followers.”

That’s precisely why Mok insisted on JOYCE's increased involvement in YDC. “Our competition may not have the financial backing of a global fashion prize, but we hope that it does give opportunities to new local designers and prepare them to expand locally and then internationally.”

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Above Angie Ng, model (Photo: Courtesy of FASHIONALLY.com)

The capsule collection by ARTO. is available at JOYCE, Pacific Place now. 

The next edition of the Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers’ Contest takes place this year on September 8, 2018. For more details about YDC, visit fashionally.com.

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