While many fashion houses see watchmaking as a branding exercise, some approach it as a serious business
Until recently, most watch-possessing people owned just one or two: a classic timekeeper for work or formal occasions and perhaps something sporty for downtime. It was only in the 1980s, with the proliferation of affordable digital and quartz watches, when consumers began thinking of timepieces like any other style accessory—a product to be purchased in multiple shapes, sizes and colours.
In the 1990s, virtually every major designer label began appearing on watch dials. The thing was, for the most part, that’s all those brands really did—casually stamp their logo onto an inexpensive quartz watch and charge a premium for the branding. While their aesthetics might’ve been acceptable, the quality that distinguished the garments these designers had built their names on frequently wasn’t present.
Many fashion houses continue to simply cash in, licensing their trademarks to appear on superficially chic yet horologically unimpressive products. However, some savvier fashion brands have come to recognise that the timepieces carrying their name need to match not only the style, but also the craftsmanship of the other goods in their portfolio.
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A pioneer in the fashion watch field, Gucci started out with an affordably priced, licensed product, selling huge quantities during the Seventies and Eighties. In the late 1990s, however, the Florentine brand, then undergoing a complete restructuring by the dynamic duo of Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole, brought watchmaking back in-house and now produces a more exclusive, higher-quality range at its own factory in Switzerland.
Similarly, Christian Dior’s first forays into the world of watches occurred with partnerships in the 1960s and Seventies. It is only since the maison was purchased by LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault that the standard of Dior’s watches has come to parallel the exquisite couture that is the brand’s signature. Through its association with LVMH (owner of marques including Zenith, Hublot, Bulgari and Tag Heuer), Dior has access to enviable watchmaking resources and certainly does not waste the opportunity this affords.
The same can be said for LVMH’s flagship brand, Louis Vuitton, which has offered a solid collection of timepieces for the past two decades. Many of these feature complications, such as dual time or world time indications, inspired by Vuitton’s rich history in travel.
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