Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020: Day 1 Highlights
Our morning began with Brunello Cucinelli’s nature-inspired collection where details resembling forest moss and tree bark found their way into woolly knit tunics and cardigans alike. Welcome additions to the always relaxed, elegant offering are the of-the-moment knee-length shorts and lace-up boots that would be equally flattering on women of all ages.
Expect the unexpected—that’s the general rule of thumb when it comes to Gucci’s presentations, and the notion was heightened once again this season beginning with a voice note Whatsapped to each guest from Alessandro Michele himself in lieu of a physical invite.
Upon entering Gucci Hub, we found ourselves in the hair and makeup station where models were still being primped, and for a moment questioned if we had stumbled through into the backstage area. It became clear, though, once the show began, and the artificial fog dissipated from the stage, that it was all part of the theme behind this collection entitled The Ritual.
Inside a revolving, glass carousel, dressers clothed the models to the sound of a ticking metronome, then each model—most of whom were clad in Victorian dresses of various jewel tones—walked and stood in a circle like live mannequins.
In typical Michele fashion, there were splashes of plaid, a hint of harnesses and dripping crystal headpieces, but this collection was heavy on the Peter Pan collars and ruffles, making it one of his most romantic lineups to date. The show ended with models filing out and the dressers standing in their place, perhaps in celebration of the hands behind the clothes.
Safety pin flowers on loose cardigans, chunky chains on necklines and pumps and a flash of feathers—while it may not be the most envelope-pushing of collections, I certainly found myself coveting a few of the cosy-glam pieces, namely the glittery green numbers that wrapped N21's show.
Jil Sander delivered a quiet symphony of delicious knit dresses, puff-sleeved parka frocks and delicate hem details (think fringes and wired waves). There were crisp pleats, flowing capes—basically all things that swooshed—in the brand’s signature earth tones, punctuated with Easter hues like lime and lemon on draped, woollen looks. Subdued and elegant, it’s everything you’d find in a tasteful, grown-up closet.
See also: The Best Street Style From New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020