Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020: Day 2 Highlights
Max Mara had us dreaming of the sea with a nautical reimagination of their earthy workwear. There were, of course, their tried-and-trusted teddy coats but plenty more anoraks and ponchos in sailing stripes, adorned with tassel fastenings and topped off with knitted watch caps. Even their classic cashmere wraps had added nylon hoods while their military jackets adopted drop shoulders covered in ruffles. It was a safe collection, sure, but we could almost smell the salt in the air.
Edgardo Osorio presented his Bond Girl-inspired collection under a beautiful baroque ceiling with bedazzled shoes to match. Forming the treasure trove were ombre-crystal naked pumps, starry stilettos and a breathtaking feathered flower boot—there was also a whiff of Elton John’s influence in the rainbow crystal platforms.
Emilio Pucci x Koche
Mimicking several brands’ attempts at reviving a legacy brand with the help of streetwear designers, Emilio Pucci debuted a collaboration with young French label Koche. The result was a cacophony of prints splattered on racer-back bodysuits that were layered over lace tights with pearls thrown on for good measure. The silk slips now came in neon brights, palazzo trousers were cut short and satin and denim bomber jackets abounded.
While the collection was not the most coherent mix of aesthetics, some of the feathered mini-dresses stamped with classic Pucci prints were an innovative touch.
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Despite the ominous red pit that formed the backdrop for the Prada show, the collection itself was incredibly buoyant thanks to the beautiful wide pleats and glitter Elvis Presley fringe that adorned two-thirds of the looks.
Mrs. Prada’s trusty grey coats were on display but paired with proper stiff collars and ties over organza pencil skirts. After a palette cleanser of pastel sequinned frocks, oversized, puffy leather and nylon jackets with wellies stormed forth (be prepared to see them all over street style blogs next season) and the obligatory Linea Rosa motif made an appearance, running along with tunics and skirts alike. Oh, and did we mention the fringe?
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The plush boudoir sofas we sat on were a huge hint for the show to come, a beautifully feminine lineup of drop-shouldered, Juliet-sleeved, quilted collection of coats, bubblegum-pink knits, creamy cardigans and Chantilly lace frocks. The softness was offset by the sharp nurse collars, classic Fendi men's shirts and military jackets all nipped in the waist—it was a celebration of the female figure, like those found in vintage drawings.
A closer look reveals a collaboration with hype London accessories brand Chaos with a series of tech jewellery, from Airpod cases to zipper lanyards. Ready, get set, spend.
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Jeremy Scott’s invitations are always curious but when we received a three-tiered cake (no it was not edible), we knew we were in for an extravagant show—and we were not disappointed.
Scott saw the Marie Antoinette theme through to its very end, starting with a series pannier skirts wrapped in everything from his signature leather and buckles to denim to curtain and chinoiserie prints. At one point the Harajuku cosplay girls were evoked with anime characters splashed all over as models in sky-high hair strutted in equally high platform boots holding sliced cake clutches.
Finally, the cakes came out of the fashion oven, with Joan Smalls floating out in a multi-tiered confection, Gigi Hadid twirling in a rosebush and finally, a model emerging in a cake-topping wedding gown.