Raf’s Simons’s second collection for Calvin Klein did not disappoint, with an eclectic exploration of the past and the future. Harkening back to American art and film motifs, “American Horror, American Dream” celebrates classic tropes in the form of Andy Warhol prints on nylon and tie-dye leather as well as parachute jackets and masculine shirt-pant combos.

The two-year-old brand’s new collection took its cues from sports uniforms and collegiate wear, so it was only fitting that the show was held in a gymnasium in Hudson Yards. Inspired by the designers’ own worn-out basketball shorts, models were dressed in fringed skirts, sparkly jerseys and preppy cardigans; all in patriotic red, white and blue—a tribute from the designers to New York and America.

The iconic brand is currently undergoing a year-long relaunch with 26-year-old editor-in-residence Isabella Burley at the helm. Burley invited artists whom Lang has collaborated with to reinterpret the brand, like Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver, who injected his signature sex appeal aesthetic to the Spring Summer 2018 collection with plenty of skin-baring bralets and leather BDSM-inspired harnesses, but also with a healthy dose of minimalist blazers and cropped black trousers that Lang was known for.

A slight departure from her figure-hugging dresses and monochromatic tailored pants, Victoria Beckham opted for a bit of whimsy in the form of looser silhouettes and flirty, organza skirts. Oversized pastel blazers and silky, gossamer fabrics floated down the runway, underscoring Beckham’s message: “Delicacy can be strong.” 

While some had reservations about Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s handling of Mr. de la Renta’s legacy—lamenting that the new collection’s rainbow paint-splattered denim, logo-print and sheer, naked dresses were a far cry from the late designer’s aesthetics—the gowns, though still heavily covered in pop art, held true to the brand’s tulle-filled DNA. An orange ombre tulle gown and silver and black sequinned dress were just some of the highlights.

As per tradition, the Marc Jacobs show marked the last day of NYFW and the all-American designer wrapped things up with a bang—well, metaphorically, because all 56 models walked the whole show only to the sound of their own clicking heels. For inspiration, Jacobs frolicked down memory lane, taking daisies and psychedelic patterns from collections past and exaggerating them onto track pants and parkas, while final touches came in the form of bright silk turbans by Stephen Jones.