Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020: Day 1-2 Highlights
Inspired by two photos of her mother, Maria Grazia Chiuri sent models in straight suits and plenty of Prince of Wales checks storming down a newspaper printed runway. The show décor of flashing signs of various feminist slogans is part of a collaboration with artist Claire Fontaine is meant to be a subtitle to the show, which featured boyish suits worn over biker leggings, pleated skirts and polka dot scarves and pops of preppy sweater vests. Chiuri’s well-loved evening pieces closed the show, this time in glitter tulle and floor-length fringed frocks.
Anthony Vacarello must have had Matrix on his mind as he served up a fall collection filled with latex trousers and glossy thigh-high boots. There were his sharp, double-breasted jackets with golden buttons, pops of 80s hues like lavender and red, and pussy bow or jabot necklines adorned shirts over culottes tucked into boots, unless there was a lace bustier in its place. The Bond Girl spotlighting also highlighted the giant fur coats carried over from previous seasons and cast a powerful aura over the show.
Bruno Sialleli took audiences down memory lane, specifically to the salons of the 40s and 50s where elegant women in the days of Jeanne Lanvin wore doll dresses, big-buttoned and flowing with cute, fur-trimmed collars. Some models wore red gloves, holding cake box-shaped bags, others flitted past in boudoir gowns or peplum dresses. Of note beyond the girly collection was welcome inclusion of older and plus-sized models.
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Ex-Lacoste designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s debut Kenzo collection was shown in a winding bubble tent, in which models wore farmer caps with floor-length trains. The long silhouettes continued through each piece with several oversized trenches, ponchos and parachute dresses tied at the sleeves or calves with rope to make shapes. The abstract tiger graphic by Portuguese artist Julio Pomar was stamped throughout several knitted tunics, while camouflaged florals and water bottle harness evoked the hiking inspiration in the collection.
Fluttering eyelet shifts, picnic basket bags and delicate pastel shell overlays, this Margiela collection is one of the more feminine of late. Of course, there were also the spliced and diced trenches and exposed stitching, made new with giant asymmetric ruffles on sleeves or a fuzzy fur trim. Hats of all kinds, from fishermen’s to beekeepers’ topped off the looks.
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