Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain supermodel army came dressed in dramatic capes with black leather piping, quilted military jackets with his signature gold buttons, lots of leather on leather (and latex), plunging tuxedo blazers, a series of silk scarf print shirts and skirts and finally, bronze silk dresses.

Lampshade hats sat atop models who wore beautiful capelets and long coats in lilac or cobalt with sailor flaps as well as the occasional houndstooth suits. While not the most coherent in terms of theme, there were covetable pieces for every woman, from the droopy crossbody knit or orange pyjama silks.

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Yamamoto’s mostly-black lineup began with voluminous ruffled or triangular bubble dresses with ribboned corset details in the back and unfinished pleats dangling. Colour was then introduced first with houndstooth or checkerboard print skirt wraps and then graffiti strokes in red or white on exaggerated trench dresses, all crumpled or cut asymmetrically to make various shapes.

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It can be difficult to tell the difference between the collections under Hedi Slimane but this one saw more jabot and ruffled collared blouses paired with his tried-and-true plaid culottes, boot cut trousers or heavily embroidered skirts (emphasis on the ‘heavy’). There seems to be additional fur for fall, in the form of long vests or leopard all-over coats but as usual, the show closed with a series of metallic thread dresses and plenty of sparkly frocks.

Joseph Altuzarra created a dreamy wardrobe for the modern woman, inspired by age-old tropes for elegance. There were mock corsets on the backs of long coats, delicate feather on belts, slippers and clutches, watercolour crepe dresses and creamy knitted cardigans—clothes that were as sophisticated as they were cosy.

Held in the mesmerizing chandeliered halls of Hotel de Ville, Andreas Kronthaler (Vivienne Westwood’s husband) showed a feminine-eclectic collection complete with ruched, voluminous bustle dresses in keeping with the house’s roots, but with sportier looks sprinkled in between (think sports caps, grunge puffers and Velcro sneakers). The highlight was, of course, Bella Hadid walking into a chest-baring laced wedding gown wielding a dagger.

Inspired by a midsummer night’s dream, Delvaux’s couture-worthy handbags came in bejewelled, feathered details that required 45 hours of embroidery, a series of purses adorned with crystals resembling the night sky and some Japanese denim pieces in keeping with an inky blue theme.

The Korean designer’s signature sliced-and-diced plaid trenches continued to make an appearance for fall, but it was interesting to see him experiment with more feminine creations, namely pearl and crystal embellished tulle dresses, ruffle hems and microfloral frocks. The crossbody chain detail on leather pieces were also promising additions.

It was exciting to see a youthfulness injected into Hermes’ fall collection, both in terms of colours (primary hued pleated skirts for example) and shapes like the quilted aprons, cropped canvas anoraks, camel puffer and long bomber jackets. For the loyalists, there were of course also crisp leather tunics and jackets, brown leather panelling on corduroy pieces that will forever be classics.

See also: The Best Street Style From Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020