ICYMI: Top 5 Moments of Paris Fashion Week FW21
Gabriela Hearst's Debut for Chloé
When the news broke about Gabriela Hearst (the Uruguayan designer known for her eponymous label for luxury sustainable collections) succeeding Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé, everyone more or less agreed it was a sound choice. After all, Hearst's bohemian aesthetic filled with earthy, diaphanous silhouettes and shaggy ponchos worked well with Chloé's heritage.
While not the first to bring a sustainability angle to the brand (her predecessor Stella McCartney claims that honour), Hearst largely repurposed overstock from the brand's past collections (hence a very familiar scalloped patchwork leather coat) and worked with Sheltersuit, a nonprofit organisation providing aid to the homeless on the backpacks, decreasing this collection’s environmental footprint by 400% compared to last. Fans on the accessories never fear—Hearst reimagines the Edith bag with her modern-hippie touch of loose fringe and completely transforms the Darryl in knitted knots.
Coperni's Drive-In Runway
The only brand to have a physical show this season, Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant cleverly staged a drive-in event where guests were picked up in pairs by cars and taken to Accor Arena in the outskirts of Paris to comply with the strict rules of social distancing.
They were then lined up to form the runway for the models to walk through, with the headlights as show lighting. The clothes reflected the duo's love of Space Age-meets-club attire aesthetic—high-octane accessories are paired with slinky dresses under giant shearling coats.
Thom Brown Taps Olympic Skiier Lindsey Vonn
Thom Browne had the Olympics on his mind this season, and he made another awesome spectacle come to life with the help of Olympic skiier Lindsey Vonn who arrives on a snowy summit via helicopter, wearing his fantastical golden creation.
Browne mixed his signature sharp tailoring and exaggerated shapes with a hint of sportswear—think strategic quilting for extra volume, alpine scarves and snow boots. No doubt Browne scores the gold medal for best fashion film this season.
See also: 5 Wearable Trends From London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2021
Matthew M. Williams Gains Momentum at Givenchy
After only being able to present his debut collection through a look book last season, Matthew M. Williams finally gets to stage a runway (sans audience, of course) this season and his designs, too, got to shine. All about mixing the micro and macro, there were slinky hand-spun dresses made using couture methods, Japanese Boro trousers for men and women that will only be available in limited quantities in the world, but they were paired with clunky, alien-like shoes and perfectly oversized blazers as Williams had intended.
Hardware remains his signature and can be found as appliqués hand-stitched on tulle and in the chunky chains that are actually made of interlocking 'G's if you look closely.
See also: The Best Street Style From New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021
Loewe Makes Headlines
For yet another clever and crafty show invitation-slash-presentation, Jonathan Anderson created a newspaper with the headline "The Loewe Show Has Been Cancelled," as a time capsule for this moment in fashion history where all the shows could not go on (physically). Anderson was also inspired by Danielle Steel, (he included a 26-paged excerpt in the paper), because her work "encourages people to read," he said.
The collection itself is one of the most vibrant that we've seen from Anderson. While the flouncy sleeves and drape-and-cinch silhouettes continued, geometric shapes and lines in bright hues found their way into the dresses and accessories in his hopes to bring a little joy to the world through colour therapy. Anderson also revives Loewe's Arizona bag, a 70s archival style, and douses it in a monogram print, while the popular Flamenco shape gets an XXL makeover.
See also: How Jonathan Anderson Became One Of Fashion’s Most In-Demand Designers