Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020: Day 1 Highlights
Emerging Korean designer Kimhekim, who studied under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, debuted his collection at Paris Fashion Week with models in giant neckties or blazers and organza dresses holding IV drips or selfie sticks down the runway. The inspiration? “Attention seekers spending their summer in a santitorium.”
Another Korean designer making waves is Rok Hwang, who's become known for his exquisite, deconstructed plaid blazers. Hwang expanded on that offering, punctuating ensembles with colour-blocked leather, but this season sees the injection of mountaineering elements with bungee rope details, backpack straps and looks styled with hiking shoes.
The young Parisian designer built on her signature bodysuits and half-moon prints with blood red and black vinyl looks. She also expanded into a range of feminine crochet and lace dresses, along with some tiger stripes and turquoise for added colour. Oh, and the pooches who walked the drizzly runway definitely stole the show.
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Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from Christian Dior’s sister, Catherine Dior, who was said to have been the "green thumb" in the family. Trees stood in the middle of a wooden cube at the Hippodrome, where models circled the makeshift forest in plenty of floral crochet and embroidered tulle topped with straw caps and a dash of tie-dye. The 164 trees will be planted across Paris after the show.
The show opened with a pregnant model, demonstrating the emerging Chinese designer’s ethos that clothes should not discriminate and should serve the needs of every type of woman. The striped organza numbers, pleated suits and sheer crepe anoraks will surely be flattering on women of every shape and size.
Another new Chinese designer on the calendar is Calvin Luo, who opted for intimate presentations at Maxim’s—a retro salon—to evoke the mood of the collection, which was inspired by the Woody Allen film, Midnight in Paris. Models with David Bowie-style makeup wore sparkling cowboy boots in one look and architectural feathered minidresses in another.
On this rainy Paris evening, the skies parted just before Anthony Vacarello sent models down the runway in front of Champ de Mars in his signature glittering black ensembles. This time, with a heavy dose of bohemian glamour in the form of headscarves, golden jacquard dresses and lame trousers. As the Eiffel Tower began to shimmer in the background and models walked the finale, Naomi Campbell closed the show to cheers and whistles.
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