SIHH 2019: Tatler Watch Picks From Day 2
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
With dual oscillators and an impressive 65-day standby power reserve, Vacheron Constantin's latest novelty has tongues wagging and we can understand why. Previously if a perpetual calendar was allowed to run down, re-setting its indications was difficult.
Traditional designs often need to be serviced by a watchmaker if the wearer needs to reset the date and—depending on the model—age and phrase of the moon. So what’s Vacheron Constantin's solution? A watch with a 'standby' mode, in which the power reserve is 65 days over two months of running time.
Thanks to an innovative and patent-pending mechanism, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar has two frequencies that can be easily controlled by watch lovers such as ourselves, who can change it from active mode, which beats at 36,000vph, to standby mode, which slows it to 8,640vph. To put it simply, this is Vacheron Constantin’s first low energy perpetual calendar (it’s taken a whopping four years to develop), and we’re here for it.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel
What a beauty! Much of the mechanism is laid bare, so it’s obvious from the onset that Jaeger-LeCoultre has managed to revamp its iconic (and groundbreaking) micro-gyrotourbillon, which was first launched in 2004. Not only is it more beautiful, but it’s more precise. This year’s multi-access mechanism makes the Westminster Perpétuel one of the most accurate watches ever unveiled by the longstanding brand, and at its heart is the mastering of miniaturisation.
After all, fitting a small movement comprised of 92 parts into such a complicated structure is no easy feat. It’s also the first time the Master Grande collection has been designed with a miniature repeater. Of course, as we’ve come to expect, Jaeger-LeCoultre has put its own spin on the complication.
In a classic miniature repeater, there are only two gongs and two hammers; one for the minute, and one for the hour, as well as a combination of both. In the Westminster Perpétuel, however, we experience four gongs: one for the hour; one for the minute; and two to create the recognisable Westminster Melody.
Ulysee Nardin Freak X
Explore, excite, exist. The Freak watch has been a beloved member of the Ulysse Nardin line-up ever since its introduction back in 2001, which immediately struck chords in watch lovers’ hearts with its flying carrousel and apocalyptic design. It’s since been tweaked and prodded, and yet the mechanical prowess and ingenious design concept are what keeps this model so desirable.
The balance wheel is crafted in silicium to guarantee wearability and lightness, and is extra wide to accommodate nickel flyweights to stabilise the micro-blades. Available in several different versions, including titanium, rose gold and carbonium, we are delighted to announce that it is priced lower than previous versions in the brand's latest bid to attract a wider range of collectors.
The key feature? Ulysee Nadin's new movement called the UN-230, which boasts 72 hours of power reserve. Water resistant to 50m, wear with a calfskin or alligator strap for a guaranteed style statement. Devoid of hands (an iconic design choice that’s become synonymous with Freak), the time is indicated using a central bridge for the minutes and a wheel for the hours.
See also: First Look: 12 Timepieces To Watch At This Year's SIHH
Piaget Diamond River Bracelet
Ever since the 1980s, Possession watches have become a jewellery box staple among many style-savvy women, and this year Piaget has pushed the boundaries of its opulence even further with the unveiling of a dazzling diamond high jewellery piece that comes with a Piaget manufacture 56P Quartz movement.
Long has the brand celebrated the free-spirited woman with its magnificent levels of gem-setting, but this piece is something else altogether. Set in white gold, it showcases the raw talent and skill of in-house savoir-faire, with a fully paved dial and case back as well as a diamond-paved bracelet that’s surprisingly light.
The watch gets its name—Diamond River Bracelet—from its graceful fluidity, accomplished by the individually hand-set stones, which is a speciality of the maison—the watch’s stunning 18k white gold case back is set with 621 brilliant-cut diamonds that weight a total of 11.17cts. Despite the intricacy and underlying structure, the bracelet remains extremely supple.
See also: 11 Dazzling Jewellery Watches To Add To Your Collection
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech
Panerai loves to pay homage to its exciting history with the elite divers of the Italian Navy, and this year it's all about the brand's most hardcore dive watch offering the Submersible. The new Submersible Marina Militare 47mm is everything Panerai prides itself on. While the model references the brand’s earliest dive watches in aesthetic, it's beautifully constructed using Panerai's Carbotech composite material which makes it super easy to wear and extremely lightweight.
It contains Panerai's P.9010 automatic movement, has a date at three, a case back made from titanium, and comes with a matching rubber strap.
To make things even more exciting, the purchase of the Marina Militare Carbotech’s limited edition version also includes a two-day experience training with the Comsubin (the elite commando frogman force and one of the Italian special forces). That is, if you can keep up.
Extremely exclusive, the Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech is limited to 33 pieces, a number specifically chosen to commemorate the Gold Medals for Military Valour won by those who have been members of Comsubin in the course of its history.
See also: SIHH 2019: Tatler Watch Picks From Day 1
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