“Oils are like iPhones,” says make-up artist Liz Olivier-Conners, a New York Fashion Week regular for designers such as Carolina Herrera and DKNY. “Buy one and you won’t know how you survived without it.”

Indeed, botanical oils have revolutionised the beauty industry in recent years. Once upon a time, beauty-savvy women would wince at hearing the words oil and skin in the same sentence, now they are filling their bathroom cabinets with high-achieving face oils that tackle fine lines, pigmentation, excess sebum and dull patches. And it’s not just the indulgent element that’s tempting – skin responds extraordinarily well to oils because the consistency is similar to natural facial lipids. “They form a protective shield over the top layer of skin, and this repairs the natural moisture barrier and helps to restore a youthful look,” says Dr Carmen Lam of Hong Kong’s pioneering dermatology hub Skin Central.

Oils first caught the world’s attention when A-list celebrities raved about Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Facial Oil, the eponymous brand from fashion stylist-turned beauty mogul Linda Rodin. In 2007, Rodin worked with world-famous actresses, but she couldn’t find a product that hydrated, smoothed and illuminated the skin, so she made a serum from essential oils she’d bought overseas. Before long, household names like Emma Stone, Adriana Lima, Naomi Watts and Gwyneth Paltrow were converts, and today the original blend of almond, apricot seed, neroli, argan and sunflower oil has sold over 70,000 bottles. Rodin believes its success is down to its immediate results and its pampering effects. “When you put it on, in French it’s called bien-être, which means a sense of well-being,” she says.

And so botanical oils are all the rage, but it’s hard to know which of the much-hyped products to choose between. Asian women have skin that is naturally oilier than their Caucasian counterparts, and though applying lipids to an already oily surface sounds wrong, dermatologists are now recommending it. “Avocado and coconut oil are very heavy, so I rarely prescribe them in the East,” says LA-based celebrity dermatologist Dr F Fung. “Instead, I suggest lightweight tea-tree, chamomile and grape-seed oils because they won’t clog pores, and they contain antiseptic elements that soothe irritated or acne-prone skin. And if you apply a product for oily skin such as Caudalie Vinosource Nourishing Concentrate (using a cotton swab on infected areas), you can help regulate your natural production of bacteria-attracting sebum.”

Oily skin may age more slowly than dry skin, but when you notice fine lines turning into wrinkles, it means your water-retaining lipid barrier is breaking down. “Oils restore your lipid layer in a way that face creams, which are predominantly made of water, cannot,” says Kristen Petrovich, founder of Själ Skincare, a favourite amongst stars such as Angelina Jolie and Helena Christenson. “Själ Saphir Anti-Aging Oil was made especially for the Asian market because it’s lightweight and contains a retinol plant oil that revitalises and plumps up skin while fading wrinkles, all without any irritation, grease or blocked pores.”

Rosehip is another youth-promoting oil because it stimulates collagen production, improves epidermal flexibility and fades pigmentation spots. Two products that use it to their advantage are Aromatic Apothecary Rosehip Oil and Clarins Lotus Face Treatment Oil. If you want instant results, then apply your oil before bed because the skin performs its overnight maintenance between midnight and 4am. “In Southeast Asian countries, humidity and heat make water loss high, so women need to apply a night cream first for water-based hydration,” says Michèle Evrard, trained pharmacist and founder of the M.E SkinLab brand.

The likes of 23-year-old supermodel Chanel Iman, however, aren’t oil converts for the anti-ageing benefits. They’re after that elusive glow. Ingredients such as peptides and retinal speed up collagen production and cell turnover, while argan, passion fruit and African marula oils create a natural shimmer: try Dior Prestige Satin Revitalizing Nectar for a dewy finish. Sophie Dahl’s make-up artist, Renee de Wit, meanwhile, says her kit isn’t complete without L’Occitane l’Immortelle Biologique Radiance Enhancer, which, she says, tightens pores so effectively. “I mix it with foundation and a splodge of highlighter to create a radiant look,” De Wit says.

The Mandarin Oriental hotel’s spa director Helene Almgren has another tip for glowing skin: a deep-cleaning passion-oil facial. “Passion oil is a must when you need to adapt to dramatic changes in the climate, or stressful periods that cause breakouts,” she says.

And if you can’t fit in a facial, why not get equally professional deep-cleaning results at home with Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil. “Oils cleans away dirt more efficiently than face wash or cleansing wipes,” says make-up artist Olivier-Connors. “We naturally produce a sticky oil that clings to grime, but cleansing oils loosen it from the skin, so sunscreen and make-up wipe off in an instant.”

A moment, an hour, a night… oils certainly are speedy workers, which is probably why they’re so popular in this era of instant gratification. If we’re looking for a reduction in lines, redness or dullness – or just a healthy glow after a long day at work – we want it now, not next month. As De Wit says, “If you can’t go on holiday every month, use an oil and look like you did.”