Carson Chan's Top 5 Watch Picks From Baselworld And SIHH 2018
June 18, 2018 | BY Hong Kong Tatler
Carson Chan, aka the Watch Professor, is the head of the Greater China mission of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, and a jury member at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. He weighs in on the novelties unveiled at Baselworld and SIHH—and shares his top five picks
Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon by Bulgari
This watch is a total disruption. And I love it! The Bulgari Octo Fin MR shatters conventional thinking with its crystal-clear chimes in a slim form. It’s truly amazing to see how Bulgari managed to squeeze in all the components into such a thin case. It also has an amazing sound quality. Best of all, I love the look.
Swiss Alp Minute Repeater Tourbillon by H Moser & Cie
It may not be entirely unique, but the H Moser Swiss Alp Minute Repeater Tourbillon is one of the very few watches that has a repeater gong in rectangular shape. This watch continues the brands’ trademark innovative approach, while maintaining tradition.
I already have the original Swiss Alp watch from 2016—this is the ultimate piece when you have two complications (tourbillon and minute repeater) housed in the same case. While featuring the usual excellent quality in the movement and the case, what’s even more remarkable is knowing how H Moser is still a small team but able to produce something as impressive as this.
1815 Hommage to Walter Lange by A Lange & Söhne
I have heard people say that this watch has no real use, but… This is the first timepiece in modern Lange history to offer the jumping sweep seconds hand with the start/stop function, a mechanism that was invented in the period when chronographs weren’t yet available. Sure, it’s not very useful in today’s terms (then again, no mechanical watch is “useful” today, is it?) but the essence of this watch isn’t its usefulness.
To me, it’s more about the brand’s foresight and innovation—way back two centuries ago. I love the simplistic, clean and elegant design. The jumping seconds is something only a watch nerd will appreciate, while others will think it’s a quartz watch!
Navitimer Super 8 by Breitling
The Breitling Navitimer Super 8 was inspired by the Reference 637, a stopwatch that pilots used in the 1930s and 1940s. The Super 8 is big, at 50mm. But that’s because back in the day, pilots wore it strapped to their thighs—it had to be big to be legible.
The watch also features an in-house automatic movement that has a 70-hour power reserve. I love Breitling’s aviation history and this piece carries all its important traits.
Speedmaster Apollo 8 by Omega
Ceramic case. Old school manual winding movement Cal.1869. Yellow (racing) hands. What else can you ask for in a Speedmaster? I have always wanted a Speedmaster in ceramic case, but all the previous versions were just not really my cup of tea—until the Apollo 8. I love the larger case size (44mm), which gives it a modern feel, and the manual winding calibre is a must for any Speedmaster geek.
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