5 Unique Settings That Redefine Jewellery

From the classic to the contemporary, we look to the brands that have created their own unique gemstone setting techniques

Chopard's Magical Setting

Above Chopard’s Magical Setting features oversized cluster rings that champion a stylised interpretation of the flower (Photo: Courtesy of Chopard)

Chopard’s newly-unveiled jewellery technique, Magical Setting, involves minimising the amount of metal between the stones, which allows for the maximum amount of light to reflect between the piece’s precious gemstones. As such, the centre stone of each piece is set in barely-there claws, which makes it look as though each jewel hangs mid-air, as if–yes, you guessed it!–by magic. Exclusive to Chopard, this ingenious setting also serves to intensify each piece’s brilliance.

Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard, pioneered the new setting and also led the design for the new line, which is comprised diamonds and Sri Lankan sapphires, as well as Mozambique rubies and Zambian emeralds, among others. The line’s carefree aesthetic and elegant beauty, it argues, represents today’s unstoppable desire for women’s empowerment and worldwide equality.

Cartier's Trembling Setting

Above Les Galaxies de Cartier bracelet by Cartier (Photo: Courtesy of Cartier)

Cartier's Les Galaxies de Cartier collection is a limited-edition series and the first for which the brand has used metaquartzite–a metamorphic rock.

Inspired by the cosmos, the maison introduces its exclusive Serti Vibrant technique, also known as the Trembling Setting, which is a miniaturised version of its original setting technique. Diamonds, milky quartz, rose gold and moonstone are arranged on an irregular mesh that animates the stones, and increases their refraction of light.

Tiffany & Co's Tiffany Setting

Above Tiffany & Co ring by Tiffany & Co. (Photo: Courtesy of Tiffany & Co)

In the 19th century, Charles Lewis Tiffany established a new method of setting a diamond. He, almost undoubtedly, had no idea just how iconic his technique would later become.

Tiffany's idea was simple: raise a ring's centre diamond using six evenly-spaced claws to maximise the light that travels through it. The technique would become Tiffany & Co's classic setting for its iconic engagement rings, and was appropriately coined: Tiffany Setting.

Boghossian's Kissing Setting

Above Kissing Diamond & Emerald ring by Boghossian (Photo: Courtesy of Boghossian)

The Boghossian family have committed themselves to creating exceptional jewellery that marries the rarest gemstones with innovative design. Its Kissing Setting features a technique that involves setting one stone on top of another, to create a perfect light between the two.

The brand has long experimented with jewellery techniques, and has also pioneered what it's called the Merveilles Setting, which sits gemstones seamlessly side-by-side.

Van Cleef & Arpels' Mystery Setting

Above Pavot earrings with sapphires and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels (Photo: Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)

First used by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933, the Mystery Set technique is extremely intricate. A single clip takes no less than 300 hours of work, with each faceted stone delicately inserted onto thin gold rails less than two-tenths of a millimetre thick.

Once complete, the jewellery piece's gemstones appear to be entirely free-standing. The setting allows for the stones to be displayed without any visible mounting and because of the level of expertise required, only a few pieces are produced each year.

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Watches & Jewellery Chopard Jewellery Collector Jewellery Setting Jewellery News Setting Technique