Carson Chan
Cover Carson Chan (Photo: Ivan Wong)

Watch connoisseur and GPHG Academy member Carson Chan explores the trends in 2024 that are likely to shape the future of watchmaking, from the aesthetics of watch sizes and dials to technological advances in materials

For years, larger watch cases dominated the scene, with 47mm diameters being quite common. However, a significant shift is underway, and the market is increasingly moving towards more refined and comfortable sizes.

We began to see such a transformation several years ago, from 42mm to 40mm; now that 38mm is becoming more prevalent, this downsizing trend is hard to miss. There’s even a growing conversation around 36mm watches gaining favour.

This change is more than just a fashion statement; it’s a reflection of a broader shift in consumer preferences towards elegance and comfort. The trend is towards smaller watches reminiscent of the classic styles of the mid-20th century, hinting at a revival of vintage aesthetics in modern watchmaking.

Brands across price ranges have been focusing on the revival of classic pieces, making smaller case sizes not only a trend but also a way of celebrating their own history. 

Read more: Watches with the quiet luxury allure

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Chopard LUC 1860 in 36.5mm Lucent Steel
Above Chopard LUC 1860 in 36.5mm Lucent Steel

The role of colour

Colour has become a pivotal aspect of watch design in recent years, and this trend is expected to continue in 2024. The introduction of various hues, from subtle fume to bold, vibrant shades, has transformed the faces of watches, infusing them with personality and modern flair.

This move towards colourful dials is not just about keeping up with trends; it represents a strategic decision by the watchmakers. In a market where innovation is key, altering the colour of a dial is a cost-effective way to offer a fresh look without extensive research and development investments.

The choice of colours can also be symbolic, reflecting cultural, seasonal or fashion trends, and creating a deeper connection with consumers. The colours reflect not just watch industry preferences, but also parallel trends from fashion to automotive design.

See also: How a group of watch artists is making horology fun with playful artworks and pop culture references

Tatler Asia
Bell & Ross Diver in bronze with a green dial
Above Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver in bronze with a green dial

Silicon hairsprings

The year 2023 marks the end of the silicon hairspring patent owned by a handful of watch brands, thus opening up new possibilities in watchmaking.

Silicon hairsprings are set to revolutionise the industry with their low friction coefficient, low maintenance and resistance to magnetism—a crucial advantage in our increasingly digital world. This development is not just about enhancing the performance of watches; it’s about redefining what a mechanical watch can be in the modern era.

The adoption of silicon hairsprings is the perfect blend of traditional watchmaking and cutting-edge technology, offering improved accuracy and longevity. Although some brands consider silicon not to be service-friendly, its anti-magnetism capabilities make it extremely relevant in our daily lives, surrounded by devices like mobile phones and tablets that contain multiple magnets. 

In case you missed it: Why Greuble Forsey is expanding its manufacture 

Tatler Asia
Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS with camouflage treatment features a blue silicon oscillator and balance spring
Above Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS with camouflage treatment features a blue silicon oscillator and balance spring

Beyond functionality

As we look forward to the rest of 2024, the watch market is shaping up to be an exciting blend of tradition and innovation. The move towards smaller watch sizes recalls the classic era of watchmaking, while the adoption of bold colours reflects a modern aesthetic. The technological advancement of silicon hairsprings represents a significant leap in the evolution of watchmaking.

In today’s world, the functionality of mechanical watches, which in the pre-digital era could mean life or death for the wearer (eg pilots, divers, seafarers whose profession and life depended on the accuracy of watches), has taken a back seat. The focus has shifted towards what a brand represents, its ideology and its emotional resonance. 

An innovative product with a story behind it not only elevates the perception and position of a brand but also connects with the consumer on a more profound level, fostering greater loyalty.

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