The old-world-meets-new-Asia chic of Hanoi makes it a place of interesting contrasts - French colonial architecture, Buddhist temples, the intimidating swarm of motorbikes often bearing entire families, a local coffee culture unrivalled in Asia - all make for a lively atmosphere, the perfect backdrop for its equally dynamic culinary scene.

Designer restaurants sit in simple neighbourhoods within narrow alleyways, and small though as the city is, there are numerous innovative chefs on the scene. For a brief weekend, here are our top picks - plus a couple of alternatives:

Friday night:

7pm: Local French chef Didier Corlou, who is also former executive chef of the iconic Sofitel Metropole Hanoi Hotel - the must-stay hotel while in Hanoi - has several establishments in the city, but Madame Hien is by far our favourite. Situated in a charming, yellow colonial villa with a terrace that's ideal for cooler summer days and nights, the beautiful ambience is complemented by a wide menu showcasing different regional specialities. The cuisine is distinguished by its upscale take on Vietnamese home cooking, with a few more creative touches thrown in - ingredients are top quality and the presentation so delightful you'll spend a few moments admiring your food before digging in.

Alternatively, Restaurant Bobby Chin, the eponymous restaurant of the celebrity chef with his own show on the Discovery Channel, is a sultry restaurant and lounge ideal not only for cocktails and for sampling his inventive global cuisine. Within the silk-lined dining rooms, order international tapas, Vietnamese comfort food and more creative takes such as the filet mignon spring rolls. Pair it with wines from a Wine Spectator-awarded list. Customised tastings meus are available with 24 hours notice.

Madame Hien: 15 Chan Cam, Hoan Kiem.

Restaurant Bobby Chin: 77 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho www.bobbychinn.com

Saturday:

1pm: Go to Quan An Ngon for the famed Viet street food experience - without the street. This is a busy, local haunt favoured by locals and expats alike. A large outdoor area reminiscent of an al fresco food court is surrounded by small "mini-kitchens", where everything from the uber-extensive menu is cooked to order.

Excellent local specialties like squid with lemongrass and chilli round out the experience. Arrive early or risk waiting for a table. Also visit Hai San Ngon at 199A Nghi Tam, West Lake, its seafood counterpart. Another option is La Badiane, where there is Asian-inspired French cuisine is served up in a charming white colonial villa. Grilled Australian beef tenderloin; mashed green peas and beans; red wine amd tamarind sauce; "noisette" potatoes; Peking duck leg; stewed pumpkins and onions in galangal spice are examples of how chef Benjamin Rascalou uses simple ingredients and combines them in new and innovative combinations.

Quan An Ngon: 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem.

La Badiane: 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem.

6pm: For cocktails, head over to the semi-al fresco Sunset Bar of the InterContinental hotel with its wooden deck, rattan couches and daybeds, all overlooking the lake. It's a favourite hangout for the high-end after-work crowd.

You can also opt for the more hushed and sophisticated ambience of the iconic Metropoloe Hanoi's poolside Bamboo Bar. The historic building, glamorous in its old-world design and décor maintained to perfection, and the bar can be an ideal spot for a cocktail. For something more casual, La Terrasse in the same hotel is an al fresco area near the side of the road ideal for people-watching.

InterContinental Westlake: 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho.

Bamboo Bar or La Terrasse: Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem.

8pm: Get a taste of haute Vietnamese cuisine at Club de L'Orientale, one of Hanoi's poshest dining destinations. The colonial décor is elegantly chic, and we recommend sitting by the open kitchen for the full experience.

Contemporary and traditional Vietnamese dishes pepper the extensive menu, but don't forget to order the grilled duck with the tamarind sauce and fresh spring rolls. Another good option is Mandarine, the sister restaurant of Club De L'Orientale.

22 Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem

Sunday:

11am: For Sunday brunch, the Metropoloe Hanoi's Le Beaulieu is very popular for its international buffet selection. However, we also recommend the hotel's Le Club - although the breakfast selection is slightly smaller with its selection of pastries and fruits and a few hot platters, the lovely ambience of the veranda is a relaxing way to kick start your Sunday.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem.