Cover In 1972, Pantin became the historical birthplace of Chanel research and development dedicated to skincare and make-up.

At Chanel’s Research and Innovation Centre in Pantin, France, we discover how the luxury brand develops and creates its most important skincare and make‐up collections

Beauty can be expressed in many different ways. But Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s original vision of beauty is that it is conveyed through the entire being. This took off with the creation of the iconic Chanel No 5 perfume, which revolutionised the fragrance world in 1921. Since then, women have been at the centre of all of the beauty creations from the French luxury brand. In 1924, the maison introduced its first make-up collection, and followed with its first foray into skincare products three years later. These milestones are crucial to Coco Chanel’s vision of holistic beauty.

To give shape to these creations, Coco Chanel created Société des Parfums Chanel in 1924 to oversee the creation, production and distribution of fragrances and perfumes. She then invested in a laboratory-factory in Pantin, France, where her visionary ideas came to life thanks to the scientific expertise and know-how of the
house’s artisans and producers.

Tatler Asia
Above Inside the Chanel research and development hub in Pantin, France
Tatler Asia
Above Participants at the event were asked to identify three unlabelled creams from the Chanel Sublimage collection by feeling their textures

In 1972, Pantin became the historical birthplace of Chanel research and development dedicated to skincare and make-up. Tatler Singapore had the opportunity to visit this hub in November last year, as part of the brand’s Global Integrative Beauty event, which is an opportunity for participants to be immersed in the Chanel savoir‑faire.

Located approximately 30 minutes from Paris, the Pantin Research and Innovation Centre is an epicentre where researchers combine the latest cutting-edge technology with artisanal methods, science with innovation, and knowledge with expertise to conduct research on new ingredients, formulations and manufacturing processes.

During the event, we got a taste of the research and development that go into creating each product. Participants were first given lab coats embroidered with their names, before the Chanel team delivered presentations and offered insights on various topics, from its research programmes to its open-sky laboratories around the world. During one hands-on activity, participants were asked to identify three unlabelled creams from the Chanel Sublimage collection by feeling their textures. Fabric materials and cue cards with keywords such as “thick” or “enveloping” were provided as guidance. This offered some perspective on the importance of sensorial feel to the Chanel product experience.

Tatler Asia
Above Chanel established special partnerships with renowned universities, research centres, and start-ups in different parts of the world.

TARGETING SENESCENCE WITH EXPERT PARTNERS

After Pantin, four additional international centres of innovation, research and development were later opened in the US, Japan, South Korea and China. Across these five sites, more than 300 researchers and artisans share their practical knowledge within a multidisciplinary organisation through continued sharing and discussion.

Chanel also established special partnerships with renowned universities, research centres, and start-ups in different parts of the world. One notable partnership is with the University of Vienna, where Chanel Research initiated a programme to explore the phenomenon of skin senescence. The project is led by two experts in cellular ageing, including professor Florian Gruber from the University of Natural Resources and Applied Life Sciences in Vienna.

For the uninitiated, senescence is the phenomenon of cell ageing. Each cell in the human body undergoes approximately 50 divisions before it is naturally eliminated. 

Over time, however, while most cells are replaced by younger ones, some cease dividing, lose their vitality, and start accumulating in the tissues. These “senescent” cells disrupt the function of other cells and accelerate ageing. It is therefore necessary to not only prevent senescence, but also correct the phenomenon by promoting natural mechanisms that eliminate and recycle senescent cells.

“As early as 2011, when senescence was identified as a very promising area of research in medicine, Chanel immediately saw the potential for cosmetics. By mastering senescence, we are committed to providing women with innovative solutions for ageing well and maintaining skin that is healthy and full of vitality,” says international scientific communications director Armelle Souraud.

Tatler Asia
Above Chanel's international scientific communications director, Armelle Souraud (Photo: Chanel)

The partnership with the university’s specialists is significant because it enabled Chanel’s scientists to identify and characterise senescent cells and then develop models of senescent skin. In 2020, to further analyse the impact of the exposome—a concept used to describe environmental exposures that an individual encounters throughout life, such as urban pollution, UV rays and stress—on skin senescence, Chanel Research continued its collaboration with the team at University of Vienna. This research programme, led by professor Gruber, focuses on making senescence biomarkers visible within skin, through a state-of- the-art imaging platform. Thanks to this long-term partnership, it is now the central focus of all Chanel anti‑ageing skincare ranges.

Tatler Asia
Above Sublimage Les Extraits collection
Tatler Asia
Tatler Asia
Above Testing the new Sublimage L’Extrait de Nuit formula

SKINCARE ICONS

The latest scientific advances in senescence enabled Chanel Research to develop even more efficient products, such as the Sublimage Les Extraits line. This includes three treatments that are formulated with active ingredients capable of simultaneously targeting the three stages of skin senescence for regeneration and repair benefits, marking a first in Chanel’s skincare technology.

Another highlight of the Global Integrative Beauty event was the unveiling of the new Sublimage L’Extrait de Nuit formula, which accounts for the chronobiological factors of the skin. It is enriched with a naturally derived chronopeptide and an active ingredient complex obtained from Himalayan Swertia, whose reparative power complements the rejuvenating properties of polyfractioned Vanilla planifolia. It is also housed in a redesigned and refillable double-walled glass packaging.

“Our in-depth expertise in senescence acquired during these years of research means that we can now incorporate senescence into the heart of all of Chanel’s anti-ageing skincare lines,” Souraud adds. 

By choosing to target senescence, Chanel addresses all the problems of ageing in their entirety, to develop the most effective beauty treatments.

Credits

Images  

Chuck Reyes

Topics