Olivia Buckingham, stylist and girl-about-town, dissects the runway during this year’s London Fashion Week shows
JUMP TO: Shrimps | Teatum Jones | Paul Costelloe | Sass & Bide | Simone Rocha | Gareth Pugh | Topshop | Mary Katranzou | Barbara Casasola | Burberry Prorsum | Huishan Zhang | Peter Pilotto
Friday 20th February
Out of This World: Shrimps
After celebrating Chinese New Year at China Tang the night before, it was time to embark on London Fashion Week A/W15. First on the list for me was Shrimps, the faux fur extraordinaire. On entering, it was like landing on another planet with meteorite structures setting the scene. An abundance of glitter and cracked mirrors adorned the set and the models appeared with a distinctive 70’s vibe.
Coats in mustard yellow, cherry red, and emerald green stood out by far, but the metallic silver glitter coat accessorised with a bright fur colour was irresistable. Fur-lined shoes designed in collaboration with Sophia Webster completed the looks. Slithers of PVC and crystals added the perfect final touches to the outerwear. Long live planet Shrimps!
Shrimps designer and founder Hannah Weiland and Susie Lau (aka Susie Bubble)
The Big Comeback: Paul Costelloe
I arrived to the the spectacular setting of Paul Costelloe’s show in the ballroom of the Waldorf Astoria with Yasmin le Bon and Alice Naylor Leyland of MrsAlice.com. The excitement that was building up for the return of the Irish designer to LFW was palpable, and we were not disappointed. Designs rich in jewel tones paraded down the sweeping staircase with blush rose , sapphire blue and emerald green shining from rich textured fabrics and Italian tweeds. There were elements of 50’s housewives fashion mixed with that of a Matryoshka doll, with a flattering silhouette that would suit most women. It was as if the entire collection could dress generations of females, with strapless metallic dresses to flared coats with fur collars. Welcome back, Paul Costelloe!
Alice Naylor Leyland and Yasmin le Bon at Paul Costelloe
Urban Warriors: Sass & Bide
Anthony Cuthbertson made his design debut for the Aussie brand while staying true to the classic appeal of Sass & Bide’s previous designers. A monochrome colour scheme kept in line with the brand’s signature rock ’n’ roll vibe, while sequins and embellishments broke up the often all black designs. Tribal, almost warrior-like, pieces made a huge statement on the catwalk with bursts of silver and gold jewelled creations. Sweeping pleated skirts added a touch of femininity to the urban warrior princess aesthetic. Cuthbertson’s collection is one that proves outfits can be taken from day straight to night.
Style Soul Mates: Teatum Jones
With the London design duo sourcing inspiration from the northern soul movement in America and their new-found friendship with soul legend Gloria Jones, we were always going to be in for a treat. Rumour has it that Jones herself dropped by the studio during the creation of the collection, resulting in the birth of the “Gloria” dress. Patterns and texture really shone through in this showing, with a colour palette of cherry red, sky blue and burnt orange taking lead. Gingham was a clear reference to Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones’ time spent in America. Feathers and intricate beading adorned a selection of monochrome geometric dresses that featured towards the end accompanied by a live soul singer and dancers.
And lastly…
With a quick change into my royal blue Pinky Laing military inspired jacket we headed off to the La Perla flagship store opening on Old Bond Street to catch the launch of its latest luxury option of Made to Measure lingerie. The new collection focuses on lace and the trend of the moment: lingerie as outerwear. Before heading to dinner we went on to Prada’s flagship store to discover the new chapter of the Iconoclasts.
Saturday 21st February
Gothic Glam: Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha delivered her show underneath the gothic arches and stained glass windows of the Guildhall, and the collection only added to the hauntingly beautiful surroundings. Heavy tapestry and voluminous velvet inspired by the late artist Louise Bourgeois comprised Rocha’s designs. Sombre and more gothic looks introduced the collection with sheer draped lace, heavy beading and oversize ruffles which paved the way to introducing a more ladylike majesty with blood reds, nude pinks and an abundance of pearls. A very theatrical approach that created a dramatic visual experience.
Black Beauties: Gareth Pugh
The drama was only heightened by Gareth Pugh’s return to LFW at the V&A after seven years. A film by Ruth Hogben opened the proceedings where we saw Aymeline Valade ferociously hacking off her blonde hair before smearing a red cross over her face and torso and then bursting into flames. Then, an all-black collection of warrior women dramatically entered and swept across the catwalk in full dresses and skirts fanning the floor to collars that almost swallowed their faces. The sashaying of a coat dress made out of entirely black straws created an eerie soundtrack that accompanied the football fans chanting in the background. The ferociousness of it all certainly saw Pugh redeeming his intent to capture the audience.
In between the two spectacular shows and to discuss the fashion splendour previously witnessed, it was off to refuel at the Bulgari hotel for pre birthday dirty martinis with Bryan Boy and Tina Leung from TinaLoves.com
Sunday 22nd February
Back to School: Topshop
With the rain pouring, it was a case of using my leather jacket to act as umbrella over my Topshop denim boiler suit to watch the Topshop show at the Tate Britain, sandwiched between uber bloggers Susie Lau (aka Susie Bubble) and Bryan Yambao (aka Bryan Boy). The show is always one of London Fashion Week’s hottest tickets in town, and this time the models of the moment were front row rather than on the catwalk, with Cara Delevingne taking pride of place next to Kendall Jenner and Jourdan Dunn. As for the collection, it was a case of naughty school girl meets country house party in the 70’s: sexy kilts and vinyl mini skirts were accompanied by faux fur shaggy monster jackets and faux fur lined duffel coats. Let the school games begin!
Front row at Topshop with Tina Leung, Susie Lau and Brian Yambao
Sculptural Style: Mary Katranzou
Changing in to my Malone Souliers "pink pony” shoes and sheer Alphabet top by designer Mary Katranzou, it was off to support the print queen herself. Although this season Katranzou is still keeping to her roots, there was a more completed theory to her fashion direction. There was more of a sculptural element with multi layered embellishment and quilted flounced skirts and, because detail is paramount, the backdrop and catwalk was made out of pink sponge in the shape of pyramids. Opulent beading, rich brocades all lent themselves to an extraordinarily beautiful execution.
Monday 23rd February
Streamlined Sophistication: Barbara Casasola
On the penultimate day of LFW, it was off to support fashion designer and friend Barbara Casasola who was showcasing her A/W 15 collection at the new state-of-the-art headquarters of Phillips in Berkley Square. Her collection takes streamline to a whole new level with precision tailoring providing the ultimate sophistication. Deep V-necks, ankle skimming skirts and long tunic tanks beautifully cascaded down the catwalk with the galley’s enormous concrete pillars towering over. Elements of playfulness were created in the middle of the show by dresses adorned with strings of rainbow-coloured ribbons that danced delicately against the models. When it comes to tailoring, the attention to detail is like no other. Bravo Barbara!
Boho Brilliance: Burberry Prorsum
Draped in my Burberry Prorsum mustard coloured teddy bear coat, I couldn’t have asked for more when it came to battling the elements on the way to Kensington Gardens. The Burberry show is the most highly anticipated show in the LFW calendar and this time the show provided an audience like no other, with Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne, Jourdan Dunn forming the dream team taking pride of place on the front row. This season, Burberry goes Boho – gypsy folk lace dresses, patchwork prints, mosaic encrusted tops and serious fringing filled the show with a nostalgia of 1970’s proving that the SS15 trend is not going anywhere anytime soon. Let us not forget the glittering gospel finale – huge confetti cannons exploded from the roof and what appeared like a 150 strong choir that went from one end of the vast show space to the other. Another showstopping event full of creations that will be on every fashionista’s wish list.
Amanda Strang at the Burberry Prorsum show
East Meets West: Huishan Zhang
I then crossed to the other side of London to the Rosewood Hotel for the presentation by Huishan Zhang in a quintessentially British setting with Earl Grey tea and scones as an added bonus. Textured wools and woven jacquard with lace and silk was the perfect juxtaposition of fabrics and style. Layered looks gave way to soft feminine lines with a slight rock n’ roll edge, particularly with the Swarovski crystal-adorned flapper style dresses. Zhang has Chinese heritage fused with modernism down to a T.
At Huishan Zhang's presentation in the Rosewood London's mirrored room, in my Burberry furry trench
Playful Patterns: Peter Pilotto
For my final show, I was off to meet Amanda Strang for the Peter Pilotto show in the disused Royal Mail sorting house. Inspiration came from classic board games such as Snakes and Ladders, Connect Four and Ludo putting the emphasis in the rather kooky design shapes of neon piping and woven fur or velvet. Graphics and colours started out pale and soft with muted shades transcending to high octane of colours and embellishments. Silhouettes remained simple, allowing the eyes to be drawn to Pilotto’s attention to detail and pattern.
Backstage with Amanda Strang and designers Christopher de Vos and Peter Pilotto
So another very colourful and dramatic LFW is over. Let’s see what’s in store for us next season!
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