While some dishes stand out, the combination of inconsistent quality and portioning leaves us pining for more
There is a Brexit-sized elephant in the room, when it comes to The Leah and that is the odd choice of location. Set up in what used to be the conservatory of the old Seasons restaurant, it’s situated in the no-man’s land between two sections of the Maggie & Rose children’s club—one reason why the restaurant doesn’t open until 7:30pm, after the kids have been whisked off home. It’s a shame as the space was really made to bask in some natural light. There’s plenty of greenery and a smattering of rattan chairs—organic materials that contrast with the smooth, cold marble tables and concrete flooring—and there’s access to a sizeable portion of the outdoor terrace (which, on our visit, wasn’t in use and thus plunged in near darkness).
The Leah is dedicated to British comfort food, vis-à-vis the likes of The Globe, Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen or Maze Grill, and Goughs on Gough. As such, hearty dishes like buttery pies, meaty mains and proper puddings (sectioned off into “Sea”, “Land”, “Leah”), vie for attention on the one-pager menu, put together by chef James Sharman (of nomadic restaurant concept One Star House Party) who consulted on the project. The drinks menu is thoughtfully put together, with a good range of non-alcoholic options such as tea mocktails and homemade lemonades, and drinkers can pair their meal with classic cocktails (mules, martinis, spritzes) or more regionally appropriate wines such as a bottle of Chapel Down sparkling English wine from Kent.