Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020: Day 4-5 Highlights
Leather is the name of the game at Salvatore Ferragamo’s show—long and lean floor-sweeping dusters, netted bags and dresses with asymmetric sleeves—this was some of the sleekest ones can look in so much of the material. Eschewing the sporty attempt from spring, instead Paul Andrew invested in evening for fall, delivering liquid gold chain mail and strappy fringe on swooshing frocks.
The fluorescent hues and punchy, clashing prints were a given for the feminine streetwear brand, but there was something extra retro in this collection. Perhaps it was the Pop Art prints on mini dresses, the fur stoles draped over arms over plastic chained purses, or the saccharine ruffled hems all shown to the sound of a tinkling music box, but would certainly brighten up a winter wardrobe.
Beyond the triangle heel that every shoe brand has adopted, delicate ankle-chain booties and ornate, bejewelled minaudières and pumps abounded making each shoe a little treasure of its own. The pink and red ribboned stiletto was a favourite.
See also: Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020: Day 3 Highlights
Also serving up fancy footwear is Rene Caovilla, known for its crystal fairy dust on shoes, but this time also sprinkled onto combat boots, more sneakers and embellished platform sandals for those looking for a bit of daytime glitter.
Daniel Lee wanted to explore movement for fall after his relatively sharp and rigid collections of past, and move his clothes did with sweeping octopus fringes on shearling coats that made the audience gasp with glee.
There were flashes of neon peeking out of sombre coats under all proportions of messenger bags in the Intrecciato weave, and finally a smattering of ruched glitter dresses. Lee said he felt immense pressure to upkeep the momentum he ignited for the brand, but he has done it again.
Missoni’s iconic zigzag print found a home on every knitted robe coat one could imagine woven into intarsia or patchwork prints and draped casually over models strutting in oversized berets and trousers tucked into long boots. Even the print clashing took a more monochrome note for fall, making it a collection you want to wear fireside at a countryside retreat.
See also: The Best Street Style From Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020
Vogue Italia x YOOX
“Fashion is a language, and it’s important to use this language to say something meaningful,” said Emanuele Farneti, Editor in Chief of Vogue Italia as he quoted Franca Sozzani. The Italian publication partnered with e-commerce giant YOOX whose chairman and CEO Federico Marchetti believed technology and collaboration were the means to make a difference in fashion.
Together they’ve launched the Vogue YOOX Challenge that will help foster the next crop of emerging designers who have sustainability as their core value. The celebratory dinner was hosted under the beautiful Baroque ceilings of ex-cathedral San Paolo Converso with speeches by the likes of supermodel and advocate Liya Kebede and musical performances.
After showing in London for a few years, Ports 1961 brought their show back to Milan, presenting a lineup of elegant, swingy dresses topped off with pussy bows. Satin dresses with blown up rose motifs were paired with slouchy boots, while skirts were cinched with chain belts or paired with Aran knits. Not the newest of ideas, but certainly easy to incorporate into many existing wardrobes.
At Hugo Boss, audiences were treated to a live, elegant orchestra performance as the men women’s collections were shown. Like the show space, lilac was the colour chosen for fall, featured on suits and floor-length fringe dresses alike. Camel and orange were other favoured hues, in sportier looks for men (hiking attire of beanies and windbreakers) and wool coats for women paired with fringed flap bags that swept the ground.
See also: The Best Street Style From London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020