SIHH 2019: Tatler Watch Picks From Day 3
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59
CODE 11.59 is a brave departure from Audemars Piguet's well-worn and recognisable design aesthetic. As such, it comes as no surprise that the collection is already causing controversy, even among Hong Kong Tatler’s experts reporting live from Geneva.
An entirely new watch, its name—11.59—refers to the last minute of the day, before the start of a new one. Signalling a new dawn, the watch is markedly different from its predecessors, such as the successful Royal Oak Chronograph.
But why is this collection polarising critics? CODE 11.59 adopts a classic look. Its brand new case architecture is an unassuming hybrid of both the old and the new. Its mid-case is an octagon (a classic choice for Audemars Piguet), complete with brushed and polished finishes. However, the overall case back is round. Despite various complications, all of the collection's watches measure 41mm in diameter, and are designed to be worn by men and women.
H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black
H. Moser has made the bold decision to remove both its logo and indices from the dial of this sleek model. Because of its rectangular case and sharp silhouette, the Swiss Alp could almost be mistaken for a smartwatch if it weren't for the glossy black dial and one-minute flying tourbillon, elegantly positioned at 6 o'clock, which is visible behind a skeletonised bridge.
To find out the time, you must listen intently—a challenge for even the most seasoned collector. Interestingly, minute repeaters were first used before electricity became widespread, because it was too dark for watch wearers to see their dial. Driven by the hand-wound HMC 901 calibre, the sound of the hours, quarter-hours and minutes of this model were amplified by watchmakers who reworked the case to allow for additional space for a resonance chamber.
28 jewels decorate the case back, which comes with a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap and solid platinum pin buckle that’s subtly engraved with the H. Moser logo.
Montblanc 1858 Timepiece in Khaki Green
Be inspired by the street style set’s choice of khaki, which is now offered by Montblanc via its 1858 Timepiece. Inspired by nature and, more specifically, mountain exploration, the piece’s vintage-looking bronze case is elegantly paired with a brand-new khaki green dial and (do you really have to ask?) matching strap.
Robust and daring, the 1858 Timepiece is designed for extreme conditions, as were the iconic Minerva watches from the '20s and '30s which were originally made for the military. Inspired by the brand’s long-lasting history, the latest edition to this collection pays tribute to Montblanc’s heritage with in-house complications and a case back that’s playfully engraved with the Mont Blanc mountain, a compass and two crossed ice-pick axes.
One thing’s for sure, wearing this timeless model will evoke scenes of forests, fields, and the highest peaks. What are you waiting for?
Richard Mille 37-01 Automatic Cerise
Most of us enjoy a sweet treat once in while, and Richard Mille's colourful candy-inspired Bonbon collection certainly hits the spot. Ten playful models, each limited to 30 pieces, have our taste buds tingling as we're transported back to childhood memories of indulging on marshmallows and cupcakes.
The collection’s timepieces feature two-tone ceramic cases that are elevated using vibrant enamel or black-chromed titanium confections. These miniature sculptures have been painstakingly painted in acrylics and lacquered by hand, before artisans use powered enamel and fine sand to achieve a 'sugar coating' effect to make them look good enough to eat.
"Bonbon - just saying the word is enough to make you smile," said Cécile Guenat, Richard Mille's artistic director. "This collection is disruptive, elegant, daring and playful. In a word: creative!"
See also: Inside The Watch Sylvester Stallone Created For Richard Mille
Roger Dubuis Excalibur One-Off
Cars and watches have a lot in common: design; aesthetics; technique; and both are solid investments. It comes as little surprise then, that petrol heads and timekeepers alike are admiring Roger Dubuis's latest range of watches launched in collaboration with brand partner Lamborghini. The highlight? A very special bespoke piece named Excalibur One-Off. A hefty chunk of black and firey-red, this jaw-dropping 47mm watch with 60 hours of power reserve takes inspiration from Lamborghini’s new SC18 Alston hyper-car. As its name would suggest, there's only one Excalibur One-Off in existence.
It boasts a purpose-built movement, the RD106SQ, as well as a flying tourbillon specially designed to look like the V-shaped cylinder block found on a Lamborghini engine. Pirelli—Lamborghini’s trusted tyre maker—is also celebrated via the watch’s L-branded rubber and nylon mesh strap (Pirelli marks its purpose-built Lambo tyres with an L). A superb feat of engineering, the wearer of this unique creation isn’t going to be faint-hearted.
See our SIHH 2019Tatler Watch Picks from Day 1 and Day 2